References

  • Abidin, C. 2015. “Communicative Intimacies: Influencers and Perceived Interconnectedness.” Ada: A Journal of Gender, New Media, and Technology 9 (8): 1–16.
  • Barberá-Tomás, David, Isabel Castelló, Frank G. De Bakker, and Christopher Zietsma. 2019. “Energizing Through Visuals: How Social Entrepreneurs Use Emotion-Symbolic Work for Social Change. “Academy of Management Journal 62 (6): 1789–1817. https://doi.org/10.5465/amj.2017.1488.
  • Baron, Steve, Andrew Patterson, Robert Maull, and Gary Warnaby. 2018. “Feed People First: A Service Ecosystem Perspective on Innovative Food Waste Reduction.” Journal of Service Research 21 (1): 135–150. https://doi.org/10.1177/1094670517738372.
  • Bhatt, Deepa, Jill Silverman, and Marsha A. Dickson. 2019. “Consumer Interest in Upcycling Techniques and Purchasing Upcycled Clothing as an Approach to Reducing Textile Waste.” International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education 12 (1): 118–128. https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2018.1534001.
  • Bly, Sarah, Wioleta Gwozdz, and Lucia A. Reisch. 2015. “Exit from the High Street: An Exploratory Study of Sustainable Fashion Consumption Pioneers.” International Journal of Consumer Studies 39 (2): 125–135. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12159.
  • Brooks, Gillian, Jenna Drenten, and Mikolaj Jan Piskorski. 2021. “Influencer Celebrification: How Social Media Influencers Acquire Celebrity Capital.” Journal of Advertising 50 (5): 528–547. https://doi.org/10.1080/00913367.2021.1977737.
  • Brydges, Taylor, and Jacob Sjöholm. 2019. “Becoming a Personal Style Blogger: Changing Configurations and Spatialities of Aesthetic Labour in the Fashion Industry.” International Journal of Cultural Studies 22 (1): 119–139. https://doi.org/10.1177/1367877917752404.
  • Carollo, Luca, and Matteo Guerci. 2018. “‘Activists in a Suit’: Paradoxes and Metaphors in Sustainability Managers’ Identity Work.” Journal of Business Ethics 148: 249–268. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-017-3582-7.
  • Cervellon, Marie-Cécile, and Anna S. Wernerfelt. 2012. “Knowledge Sharing Among Green Fashion Communities Online: Lessons for the Sustainable Supply Chain.” Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal 16 (2): 176–192. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612021211222860.
  • Chu, Sookhyun, and Young Kyun Seock. 2020. “The Power of Social Media in Fashion Advertising.” Journal of Interactive Advertising 20 (2): 93–94. https://doi.org/10.1080/15252019.2020.1802955.
  • Cotter, Kaitlynn. 2019. “Playing the Visibility Game: How Digital Influencers and Algorithms Negotiate Influence on Instagram.” New Media & Society 21 (4): 895–913. https://doi.org/10.1177/1461444818815684.
  • Diaz Ruiz, Carlos A., Lorena Penaloza, and Jacob Holmqvist. 2020. “Assembling Tribes: An Assemblage Thinking Approach to the Dynamics of Ephemerality Within Consumer Tribes.” European Journal of Marketing 54 (5): 999–1024. https://doi.org/10.1108/EJM-08-2018-0565.
  • Djafarova, Elmira, and Carlota Rushworth. 2017. “Exploring the Credibility of Online Celebrities' Instagram Profiles in Influencing the Purchase Decisions of Young Female Users.” Computers in Human Behavior 68: 1–7. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chb.2016.11.009.
  • Dolbec, Pierre-Yann, and Eileen Fischer. 2015. “Refashioning a Field? Connected Consumers and Institutional Dynamics in Markets.” Journal of Consumer Research 41 (6): 1447–1468. https://doi.org/10.1086/680671.
  • Finnish Commerce Federation. 2023. “Finland Is One of the World’s Leading Second-Hand Markets.” Accessed September 21, 2023. https://kauppa.fi/en/uutishuone/2023/09/21/finland-is-one-of-the-worlds-leading-second-hand-markets/
  • Gupta, Shipra, Wioleta Gwozdz, and James Gentry. 2019. “The Role of Style versus Fashion Orientation on Sustainable Apparel Consumption.” Journal of Macromarketing 39 (2): 188–207. https://doi.org/10.1177/0276146719835283.
  • Hahn, Tobias, Jasper Pinkse, Lucia Preuss, and Frank Figge. 2015. “Tensions in Corporate Sustainability: Towards an Integrative Framework.” Journal of Business Ethics 127: 297–316. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-014-2047-5.
  • Hur, EunJu. 2020. “Rebirth Fashion: Secondhand Clothing Consumption Values and Perceived Risks.” Journal of Cleaner Production 273: 1–16. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.122951.
  • Jaakkola, Elina. 2020. “Designing Conceptual Articles: Four Approaches.” AMS Review 10 (1–2): 18–26. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13162-020-00161-0.
  • Jacobson, Julie, and Brett Harrison. 2022. “Sustainable Fashion Social Media Influencers and Content Creation Calibration.” International Journal of Advertising 41 (1): 150–177. https://doi.org/10.1080/02650487.2021.2000125.
  • Joosse, Sophie, and Taylor Brydges. 2018. “Blogging for Sustainability: The Intermediary Role of Personal Green Blogs in Promoting Sustainability.” Environmental Communication 12 (5): 686–700. https://doi.org/10.1080/17524032.2018.1474783.
  • Karpova, Elena E., Kelly L. Reddy-Best, and Farimah Bayat. 2022. “The Fashion System’s Environmental Impact: Theorizing the Market’s Institutional Actors, Actions, Logics, and Norms.” Fashion Theory 26 (6): 799–820. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2027680.
  • Kawamura, Yuniya. 2018. Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies. 2nd ed. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts.
  • Kay, Sarah, Roslyn Mulcahy, and Joanne Parkinson. 2020. “When Less Is More: The Impact of Macro and Micro Social Media Influencers' Disclosure.” Journal of Marketing Management 36 (3–4): 248–278. https://doi.org/10.1080/0267257X.2020.1718740.
  • Kozinets, Robert V. 2020. Netnography: The Essential Guide to Qualitative Social Media Research. Thousand Oaks, CA: SAGE Publications.
  • Lawrence, Thomas B., and Nancy Phillips. 2019. Constructing Organizational Life: How Social-Symbolic Work Shapes Selves, Organizations, and Institutions. 1st ed. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
  • Lawrence, Thomas B., and Roy Suddaby. 2006. “Institutions and Institutional Work.” In The Sage Handbook of Organization Studies. Thousand Oaks, CA: SAGE Publications.
  • Leban, Mario, Tommy U. Thomsen, Stefanie von Wallpach, and Benjamin G. Voyer. 2021. “Constructing Personas: How High-Net-Worth Social Media Influencers Reconcile Ethicality and Living a Luxury Lifestyle.” Journal of Business Ethics 169: 225–239. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-020-04485-6.
  • Lundblad, Lina, and Isabella A. Davies. 2016. “The Values and Motivations Behind Sustainable Fashion Consumption.” Journal of Consumer Behaviour 15 (2): 149–162. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1559.
  • Mardon, Richard, Martin Molesworth, and Gabriela Grigore. 2018. “YouTube Beauty Gurus and the Emotional Labour of Tribal Entrepreneurship.” Journal of Business Research 92: 443–454. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2018.04.017.
  • McFarlane, Angela, and Emma Samsioe. 2020. “50+ Fashion Instagram Influencers: Cognitive age and Aesthetic Digital Labours.” Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal 24 (3): 399–413. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-08-2019-0177.
  • McFarlane, Ashleigh, Kathy Hamilton, and Paul Hewer. 2022. “Putting Passion to Work: Passionate Labour in the Fashion Blogosphere.” European Journal of Marketing 56 (4): 1210–31. https://doi.org/10.1108/EJM-08-2019-0642.
  • McKeown, Christine, and Linda Shearer. 2019. “Taking Sustainable Fashion Mainstream: Social Media and the Institutional Celebrity Entrepreneur.” Journal of Consumer Behaviour 18 (5): 406–414. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.1780.
  • McNeill, Lisa, and Richard Moore. 2015. “Sustainable Fashion Consumption and the Fast Fashion Conundrum: Fashionable Consumers and Attitudes to Sustainability in Clothing Choice.” International Journal of Consumer Studies 39 (3): 212–222. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12169.
  • McNeill, Lisa, and Bianca Venter. 2019. “Identity, Self‐Concept and Young Women's Engagement with Collaborative, Sustainable Fashion Consumption Models.” International Journal of Consumer Studies 43 (4): 368–378. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12516.
  • McNeill, Lisa S., Robert P. Hamlin, Rosemary H. McQueen, Lorraine Degenstein, Tara C. Garrett, Lisa Dunn, and Sarah Wakes. 2020. “Fashion Sensitive Young Consumers and Fashion Garment Repair: Emotional Connections to Garments as a Sustainability Strategy.” International Journal of Consumer Studies 44 (4): 361–368. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12572.
  • McQuarrie, Edward, Barbara J. Phillips, and Laura J. Miller. 2013. “The Megaphone Effect: Taste and Audience in Fashion Blogging.” Journal of Consumer Research 40 (1): 136–158. https://doi.org/10.1086/669042.
  • Mesiranta, Nina, Elina Närvänen, Roosa Luukkonen, and Ines Kaivonen. 2021. “Social Media Influencers Educating Consumers on Sustainable Fashion.” In Advances in Consumer Research, edited by Tonya Williams Bradford, Anat Keinan, and Matthew M. Thomson, Vol. 49, 87–90. Duluth, MN: Association for Consumer Research.
  • Moraes, Caroline, Michael Carrigan, and Isabelle Szmigin. 2012. “The Coherence of Inconsistencies: Attitude-Behaviour Gaps and New Consumption Communities.” Journal of Marketing Management 28 (1–2): 103–128. https://doi.org/10.1080/0267257X.2011.615482.
  • Mukendi, A., Isabella Davies, Sarah Glozer, and Patrick McDonagh. 2020. “Sustainable Fashion: Current and Future Research Directions.” European Journal of Marketing 54 (11): 2873–2909. https://doi.org/10.1108/EJM-02-2019-0132.
  • Närvänen, Elina, Pauliina Koivisto, and Hannu Kuusela. 2019. “Managing Consumption Communities.” Journal of Strategic Marketing 27 (5): 388–404. https://doi.org/10.1080/0965254X.2018.1425307.
  • Orminski, Jeanette, Edson C. Tandoc Jr., and Benjamin H. Detenber. 2021. “#sustainablefashion – A Conceptual Framework for Sustainable Fashion Discourse on Twitter.” Environmental Communication 15 (1): 115–132. https://doi.org/10.1080/17524032.2020.1802321.
  • Ouvrein, Gaëlle, Pabian Sara, Giles David, Hudders Liselot, and De Backer Charlotte. 2021. “ The Web of Influencers: A Marketing-Audience Classification of (Potential) Social Media Influencers.” Journal of Marketing Management 37 (13-14): 1313–1342. https://doi.org/10.1080/0267257X.2021.1912142.
  • Ozdamar Ertekin, Zeynep, and Atik Deniz. 2015. “Sustainable Markets.” Journal of Macromarketing 35 (1): 53–69. https://doi.org/10.1177/0276146714535932.
  • Ozdamar Ertekin, Zeynep, and Duygu Atik. 2020. “Institutional Constituents of Change for a Sustainable Fashion System.” Journal of Macromarketing 40 (3): 362–379. https://doi.org/10.1177/0276146720932274.
  • Ozdamar Ertekin, Zeynep, Duygu Atik, and John B. Murray. 2020. “The Logic of Sustainability: Institutional Transformation towards a New Culture of Fashion.” Journal of Marketing Management 36 (15– 16): 1447–1480. https://doi.org/10.1080/0267257X.2020.1795429.
  • Paço, Arminda, Walter Leal Filho, Luís Vicente Ávila, and Karin Dennis. 2021. “Fostering Sustainable Consumer Behavior Regarding Clothing: Assessing Trends on Purchases, Recycling and Disposal.” Textile Research Journal 91 (3–4): 373–384. https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517520944524.
  • Pedroni, Marco. 2015. “Stumbling on the Heels of My Blog: Career, Forms of Capital, and Strategies in the (Sub) Field of Fashion Blogging.” Fashion Theory 19 (2): 179–199. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174115X14168357992355.
  • Pedroni, Marco. 2023. “Two Decades of Fashion Blogging and Influencing: A Critical Overview.” Fashion Theory 27 (2): 237–68. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.2017213.
  • Ping Helsinki. 2023.” Somevaikuttajat mediamaisemaa muokkaamassa. Tutkimusraportti 2023.” https://pinghelsinki.fi/tutkimus-somevaikuttajat-mediamaisemaa-muokkaamassa/
  • Pradies, Carole, Anne-Sophie Tunarosa, Michael W. Lewis, and Jean-Philippe Courtois. 2021. “From Vicious to Virtuous Paradox Dynamics: The Social-Symbolic Work of Supporting Actors.” Organization Studies 42 (8): 1241–1263. https://doi.org/10.1177/0170840620907200.
  • Repo, Jemima. 2020. “Feminist Commodity Activism: The New Political Economy of Feminist Protest.” International Political Sociology 14 (2): 215–232. https://doi.org/10.1093/ips/olz033.
  • Ritch, Elina L. 2020. “Experiencing Fashion: The Interplay between Consumer Value and Sustainability.” Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal 23 (2): 265–285. https://doi.org/10.1108/QMR-09-2019-0113.
  • Rocamora, Agnès. 2018. “The Labour of Fashion Blogging.” In Fashioning Professionals: Identity and Representation at Work in the Creative Industries, edited by Leah Armstrong and Felice McDowell, 65–82. London: Bloomsbury Publishing.
  • Scaraboto, Daiane, and Eileen Fischer. 2013. “Frustrated Fatshionistas: An Institutional Theory Perspective on Consumer Quests for Greater Choice in Mainstream Markets.” Journal of Consumer Research 39 (6): 1234–1257. https://doi.org/10.1086/668298.
  • Schau, Hope Jensen, Albert M. Muñiz Jr, and Eric J. Arnould. 2009. “How Brand Community Practices Create Value.” Journal of Marketing 73 (5): 30–51. https://doi.org/10.1509/jmkg.73.5.30.
  • Schöps, Jonathan David, Christian Reinhardt, and Andrea Hemetsberger. 2022. “Sticky Market Webs of Connection–Human and Nonhuman Market Co-Codification Dynamics across Social Media.” European Journal of Marketing 56 (13): 78–104. https://doi.org/10.1108/EJM-10-2020-0750.
  • Shen, Bin. 2014. “Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain: Lessons from H&M.” Sustainability 6 (9): 6236–6249. https://doi.org/10.3390/su6096236.
  • Shove, Elizabeth, Mika Pantzar, and Matt Watson. 2012. The Dynamics of Social Practice: Everyday Life and How It Changes. Thousand Oaks, CA: SAGE.
  • White, Katherine, Rishad Habib, and Daniel Hardisty. 2019. “How to Shift Consumer Behaviors to be More Sustainable: A Literature Review and Guiding Framework.” Journal of Marketing 83 (3): 22–49. https://doi.org/10.1177/0022242919825649.
  • Vassinen, Sanna. 2023. “Vastuullinen vaatekulutus osaksi koulujen kestävyyskasvatusta?” Finnish Textile & Fashion. Accessed November 29, 2023. https://www.stjm.fi/uutiset/vastuullinen-vaatekulutus-osaksi-koulujen-kestavyyskasvatusta/
  • Vladimirova, Katya. 2021. “Consumption Corridors in Fashion: Deliberations on Upper Consumption Limits in Minimalist Fashion Challenges.” Sustainability: Science, Practice and Policy 17(1): 102–116. https://doi.org/10.1080/15487733.2021.1891673.