Value-creating practices and barriers for collaboration between designers and artisans: a systematic literature review

References

• Aakko, M. (2019). Unfolding artisanal fashion. Fashion Theory - Journal of Dress Body and Culture, 23(4–5), 531–552. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2017.1421297
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Aakko, M., & Koskennurmi-Sivonen, R. (2013). Designing sustainable fashion: Possibilities and challenges. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 17(1), 13–22. doi:10.1108/RJTA-17-01-2013-B002
   Google Scholar
• Alleyne, A. (2020, March 6). What the kimono tells us about cultural appropriation | CNN. CNN. https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/kimono-fashion-history-cultural-appropriation/index.html
   Google Scholar
• Altay, C., & Öz, G. (2019). Dialogic weaving: A favourable tension between design and craft. Digital Creativity, 30(1), 39–55. doi:10.1080/14626268.2019.1574835
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Atalay, D. (2015). Women’s collaboration for the enhancement of craft culture in contemporary Turkey. Craft Research, 6(2), 223–239. doi:10.1386/crre.6.2.223_1
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Barcellos, L. F., & Broega, A. C. (2018). Co-design of designers and artisans, valorisation and communication of the partnership-a reflection for sustainable fashion design. GFC 2018 - Global Fashion Conference 2018, London, 31st October-1st November 2018. http://gfc-conference.eu/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/BARCEL1.pdf.
   Google Scholar
• Ben-Jacob, E., Goldenfeld, N., Langer, J. S., & Schon, G. (1983). Dynamics of interfacial pattern formation. Physical Review Letters, 51(21), 1930–1932. doi:10.1103/PhysRevLett.51.1930
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Bhandari, V. (2017). New directions for social enterprises: The role of design in empowerment. Scope: Contemporary Research Topics (Art & Design), 15, 24–28. https://thescopes.org/journal/art-and-design/art-and-design-15/new-directions-for-social-enterprises-the-role-of-design-in-empowerment
   Google Scholar
• Bofylatos, S. (2017). Adopting a craft approach in the context of social innovation. Craft Research, 8(2), 223–240. doi:10.1386/crre.8.2.223_1
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Bofylatos, S., & Spyrou, T. (2017). Meaning, knowledge and artifacts, giving a voice to tacit knowledge. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), S4422–S4433. doi:10.1080/14606925.2017.1352938
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Bryan-Kinns, N., Wang, W., & Ji, T. (2022). Qi2He: A co-design framework inspired by eastern epistemology. International Journal of Human Computer Studies, 160, 1–21. doi:10.1016/j.ijhcs.2022.102773
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Campbell, C. (2005). The craft consumer: Culture, craft and consumption in a postmodern society. Journal of Consumer Culture, 5(1), 23–42. doi:10.1177/1469540505049843
   Google Scholar
• Chuenrudeemol, W., Boonlaor, N., & Kongkanan, A. (2012). Design process in retrieving the local wisdom and communal identity: A case study of bangchaocha’s bamboo basketry crafts. DRS2012: Uncertainty Contradiction Value, Bangkok, 1st-5th July 2012. https://dl.designresearchsociety.org/drs-conference-papers
   Google Scholar
• Delice, S. (2022). Critiques of appropriation and transnational labor ethics. Fashion Theory - Journal of Dress Body and Culture, 26(4), 475–491. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046869
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Falls, S., & Smith, J. (2011). Branding authenticity: Cambodian ikat in transnational artisan partnerships (TAPs). Journal of Design History, 24(3), 255–271. doi:10.1093/jdh/epr025
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Gorvett, Z. (2021). The ancient fabric that no one knows how to make. BBC Future. https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20210316-the-legendary-fabric-that-no-one-knows-how-to-make.
   Google Scholar
• Guo, J., & Ahn, B. (2021). Collaborative design intervention in the traditional Chinese handicraft sector for enhancing cultural sustainability: New channel social innovation project. Archives of Design Research, 34(4), 39–53. doi:10.15187/adr.2021.11.34.4.39
   Google Scholar
• Holgate, M. (2023). Christian Dior Resort 2024 Collection. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/christian-dior
   Google Scholar
• Jha, B., & Narang, V. (2014). Co-design initiatives: Linking crafts and fashion for sustainable practices. In N. Rajaram, G. Prasad, & S. K. M. Belli (Eds.), Contemporary issues and trends in fashion, retail and management (pp. 612–623). Hyderabad: National Institute of Fashion Technology. www.bspbooks.net
   Google Scholar
• Kadam, V., Rustagi, S., Gupta, T., Shakyawar, D. B., Kumar, A., & Shanmugam, N. (2021). Traditional woolen namda (felted fabrics) from tonk, rajasthan: A livelihood initiative for rural women. TEXTILE, 20(3), 410–424. doi:10.1080/14759756.2021.1993539
   Google Scholar
• Kalkreuter, B. (2020). Anyone’s heritage? Indian fashion design’s relationships with craft between local guardianship and valorization of global fashion. Fashion Practice, 12(2), 264–287. doi:10.1080/17569370.2020.1769361
   Google Scholar
• Kang, L. (2016). Social design as a creative device in developing countries: The case of a handcraft pottery community in Cambodia. International Journal of Design, 10(3), 65–74. www.ijdesign.org
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Keith, S., & Silies, M. (2015). New life luxury: Upcycled Scottish heritage textiles. International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 43(10–11), 1051–1064. doi:10.1108/IJRDM-07-2014-0095
   Google Scholar
• Khaire, M. (2019). Entrepreneurship by design: The construction of meanings and markets for cultural craft goods. Innovation: Organization & Management, 21(1), 13–32. doi:10.1080/14479338.2018.1530566
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Klamer, A. (2017). Doing the right thing: A value based economy. London: Ubiquity Press.
   Google Scholar
• Lavin, M. C. (2019). Craft and design partnerships in the Chilean context. A critical perspective. The Design Journal, 22(sup1), 967–979. doi:10.1080/14606925.2019.1595411
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Li, W. T., Ho, M. C., & Yang, C. (2019). A design thinking-based study of the prospect of the sustainable development of traditional handicrafts. Sustainability (Switzerland), 11(18), 1–26. doi:10.3390/su11184823
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Magnifissance Magazine. (2021). 11 Sustainable Clothing Brands Reviving the Lost Know-How. Magnifissance. https://magnifissance.com/fashion/clothing/sustainable-clothing-brands/
   Google Scholar
• Mamidipudi, A. (2018). Constructing common knowledge: Design practice for social change in craft livelihoods in India. Design Issues, 34(4), 37–50. doi:10.1162/desi_a_00510
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Manzini, E., & Rizzo, F. (2011). Small projects/large changes: Participatory design as an open participated process. CoDesign, 7(3–4), 199–215. doi:10.1080/15710882.2011.630472
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Martínez Torán, M., Esteve Sendra, C., & Moreno Cuesta, R. (2017). Scenarios for design and craft. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), S2778–S2788. doi:10.1080/14606925.2017.1352789
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Noronha, R. (2018). The collaborative turn: Challenges and limits on the construction of a common plan and on autonomía in design. Strategic Design Research Journal, 11(2), 125–135. doi:10.4013/sdrj.2018.112.08
   Google Scholar
• Poggenpohl, S., & Sato, K. (Eds.). (2009). Design integrations: Research and collaboration (pp. 141–142). Bristol: Intellect Books.
   Google Scholar
• Rombe, O. S. C. (2020). The Sui utik, creative works and tembawang: Retaining biodiversity in kalimantan, Indonesia. ETropic: Electronic Journal of Studies in the Tropics, 19(1), 124–150. doi:10.25120/etropic.19.1.2020.3696
   Google Scholar
• Sandhu, A. (2020). Fashioning wellbeing through craft: A case study of aneeth arora’s strategies for sustainable fashion and decolonizing design. Fashion Practice, 12(2), 172–192. doi:10.1080/17569370.2020.1769362
   Google Scholar
• Seitamaa-Hakkarainen, P., & Hakkarainen, K. (2001). Composition and construction in experts’ and novices’ weaving design. Design Studies, 22(1), 47–66. doi:10.1016/S0142-694X(99)00038-1
   Google Scholar
• Sennett, R. (2008). The craftsman. New Haven: Yale University Press.
   Google Scholar
• Shafi, M., Sarker, M. N. I., & Junrong, L. (2019). Social network of small creative firms and its effects on innovation in developing countries. SAGE Open, 9(4), 1–16. doi:10.1177/2158244019898248
   PubMed Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Suib, S. S. S. B., Van Engelen, J. M. L., & Crul, M. R. M. (2020). Enhancing knowledge exchange and collaboration between craftspeople and designers using the concept of boundary objects. International Journal of Design, 14(1), 113–133. www.ijdesign.org
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Temeltaş, H. (2017). Collaboration and exchange between “craftsman” and “designer”: symbiosis towards product innovation. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), S3713–S3723. doi:10.1080/14606925.2017.1352876
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Thorisdottir, T. S., & Johannsdottir, L. (2019). Sustainability within fashion business models: A systematic literature review. Sustainability (Switzerland), 11(8), 1–26. doi:10.3390/su11082233
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Tung, F. W. (2012). Weaving with rush: Exploring craft-design collaborations in revitalizing a local craft. International Journal of Design, 6(3), 71–84. www.ijdesign.org
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Tung, F. W. (2021). An entrepreneurial process to build a sustainable business for indigenous craft revitalization. The Design Journal, 24(3), 363–383. doi:10.1080/14606925.2021.1883790
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Tung, F. W., & Chen, I. C. (2013). Collaboration of designers and craft artists on innovative design praxis. the 5th International Congress of International Association of Societies of Design Research (IASDR), Tokyo, 26th-30th August 2013. http://design-cu.jp/iasdr2013/papers/2073-1b.pdf
   Google Scholar
• United Nations Cultural Organization, & UNESCO. (2003). 2003 Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage: Sixth session of the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/en/6COM/
   Google Scholar
• Väänänen, N., & Pöllänen, S. (2020). Conceptualizing sustainable craft: Concept analysis of literature. The Design Journal, 23(2), 263–285. doi:10.1080/14606925.2020.1718276
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Vacca, F. (2012). Silent witnesses innovation through tradition in Italian fashion companies. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 16(4), 48–58. doi:10.1108/RJTA-16-04-2012-B006
   Google Scholar
• Walker, S., Evans, M., & Mullagh, L. (2019). Meaningful practices: The contemporary relevance of traditional making for sustainable material futures. Craft Research, 10(2), 183–210. doi:10.1386/crre_00002_1
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Wang, W., Bryan-Kinns, N., & Ji, T. (2016). Using community engagement to drive co-creation in rural China. International Journal of Design, 10(1), 37–52. http://www.ijdesign.org/index.php/IJDesign/article/view/2458/726
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Wang, W., Bryan-Kinns, N., & Sheridan, J. G. (2020). On the role of in-situ making and evaluation in designing across cultures. CoDesign, 16(3), 233–250. doi:10.1080/15710882.2019.1580296
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Yair, K., Press, M., & Tomes, A. (2001). Crafting competitive advantage: Crafts knowledge as a strategic resource. Design Studies, 22(4), 377–394. www.elsevier.com/locate/destud
   Google Scholar
• Yair, K., & Schwarz, M. (2011). Making value: Craft in changing times. Cultural Trends, 20(3–4), 309–316. doi:10.1080/09548963.2011.589711
   Google Scholar
• Yu, E. (2018). Designing for value: Insights from the emotional appraisal approach to understanding user value. The Design Journal, 21(2), 185–207. doi:10.1080/14606925.2018.1407540
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Zamenopoulos, T., & Alexiou, K. (2018). Co-design as collaborative research. Bristol University/AHRC Connected Communities Programme. https://oro.open.ac.uk/58301/1/Co-Design_CCFoundationSeries_PUBLISHED.pdf
   Google Scholar
• Zhan, X., & Walker, S. (2018). Value direction: Moving crafts toward sustainability in the Yangtze river delta, China. Sustainability (Switzerland), 10(4), 1–20. doi:10.3390/su10041252
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Zhan, X., & Walker, S. (2019). Craft as leverage for sustainable design transformation: A theoretical foundation. The Design Journal, 22(4), 483–503. doi:10.1080/14606925.2019.1613040
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Zhan, X., Walker, S., Hernandez-Pardo, R., & Evans, M. (2017). Craft and sustainability: Potential for design intervention in crafts in the Yangtze river delta, China. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), S2919–S2934. doi:10.1080/14606925.2017.1352802
   Web of Science ®Google Scholar
• Zhang, W., Walker, S., & Mullagh, L. (2019). Craft and sustainability: Reflections on design interventions in craft sector in China. IASDR Conference 2019: DESIGN REVOLUTIONS, Manchester, 2nd-5th September 2019. https://e-space.mmu.ac.uk/626769/
   Google Scholar
• Zheng, C., & Nitsche, M. (2017). Combining practices in craft and design. ACM TEI'17, the 11th-anniversary edition of the International Conference on Tangible, Embedded and Embodied Interactions, Yokohama, 20th-23rd March 2017. doi:10.1145/3024969.3024973
   Google Scholar