Wave propagation modeling in coastal engineering

Abstract

In this paper we review various numerical models for calculating wave propagations from deep water to surf zone, including wave breaking. The limitations and the approximations for each model are briefly discussed. The main focus of the discussions is on the unified depth-integrated model, which can describe fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive waves, and the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations model, which can calculate breaking waves and associated turbulence. Several applications of various models are also presented.