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Notes

1 For an overview on the studies of second-hand clothing, K.T. Hansen and J. Le Zotte, ‘Changing Secondhand Economies’, Business History, 61, no. 1 (2019), pp. 1–16.

2 Traditional textiles might include Japanese kimono, quilts or Myanmar tribal wear, to name a few. J. Valk, ‘From Duty to Fashion: The Changing Role of the Kimono in the Twenty-First Century’, Fashion Theory, 22, no. 3 (2018), pp. 309–40.

3 P. Rivoli, The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy: An Economist Examines the Markets, Power, and Politics of World Trade, 2nd edn (Hoboken, NJ: Wiley, 2009); S. Beckert, Empire of Cotton: A Global History (New York City: Vintage, 2015).

4 L. Weatherill, ‘Consumer Behaviour, Textiles and Dress in the Late Seventeenth and Early Eighteenth Century’, Textile History, 22, no. 2 (1991), pp. 297–310; P. Hudson, ‘The Limits of Wool and the Potential of Cotton in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries’, in The Spinning World: A Global History of Cotton Textiles, 1200–1850, ed. G. Riello and P. Parthasarathi (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2012) pp. 327–50.

5 N. McKendrick, J. Brewer and J. H. Plumb, The Birth of a Consumer Society: The Commercialisation of Eighteenth-Century England (London: Europa, 1982); J. de Vries, The Industrious Revolution: Consumer Behaviour and the Household Economy, 1650 to the Present (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2008).

6 M. Berg and E. Eger, eds, Luxury in the Eighteenth Century: Debates, Desires and Delectable Goods (Basingstoke: Routledge, 2003); P. McNeil and G. Riello, Luxury: A Rich History (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2016).

7 D. Roche, The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancien Regime (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994); N. B. Harte, ‘The Economics of Clothing in the Late Seventeenth Century’, Textile History, 22, no. 2 (1991), pp. 277–96; H. Tamura, Fasshon no Shakai Keizai Shigaku: Zairai orimonogyō no gijutsu kakushin to ryūkōshijō (Tokyo: Nihon Keizai Hyōronsha, 2004).

8 J. Styles, ‘Involuntary Consumers? Servants and Their Clothes in Eighteenth-Century England’, Textile History, 33, no. 1 (2002), pp. 9–21; Beverly Lemire, Global Trade and the Transformations of Consumer Culture: The Material World Remade (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2018).

9 K. Honeyman and A. Godley, ‘Introduction: Doing Business with Fashion’, Textile History, 34, no. 2 (2003), pp. 101–06.

10 C. Smith and R. Laing, ‘What's in a Name? The Practice and Politics of Classifying Māori Textiles’, Textile History, 42, no. 2 (2011), pp. 220–38.

11 Steve King and Christiana Payne edited a special issue on ‘The Dress of the Poor’ in 2002; Textile History, 33, no. 1 (2002). Other examples include S. King, ‘Reclothing the English Poor, 1750–1840’, Textile History, 33, no. 1 (2002), pp. 37–47; P. Jones, ‘Clothing the Poor in Early-Nineteenth-Century England’, Textile History, 37, no. 1 (2006), pp. 17–37; V. Richmond, ‘“Indiscriminate liberality subverts the Morals and depraves the habits of the Poor”: A Contribution to the Debate on the Poor Law, Parish Clothing Relief and Clothing Societies in Early Nineteenth-Century England’, Textile History, 40, no. 1 (2009), pp. 51–69; V. López Barahona and J. Nieto Sánchez, ‘Dressing the Poor: The Provision of Clothing Among the Lower Classes in Eighteenth-Century Madrid’, Textile History, 43, no. 1 (2012), pp. 23–42.

12 K. Pyun and A. Y. Wong, eds, Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia (London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2018).

13 Sneakerisation is defined as ‘the multiplication of inexpensive goods such as sunglasses, accessories and sports shoes in highly segmented markets with a rapid turnover’. A. Gill, ‘Limousines for the Feet: The Rhetoric of Trainers’, in Shoes: A History from Sandals to Sneakers, ed. G. Riello and P. McNeil (London: Bloomsbury, 2011).

14 J. Prestholdt, Domesticating the World: African Consumerism and Genealogies of Globalization (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2008).

15 B. Lemire, ‘Developing Consumerism and the Ready-made Clothing Trade in Britain, 1750–1800’, Textile History, 15, no. 1 (1984), pp. 21–44; S. Levitt, ‘Cheap Mass-Produced Men's Clothing in the Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries’, Textile History, 22, no. 2 (1991), pp. 179–92; P. Sharpe, ‘“Cheapness and Economy”: Manufacturing and Retailing Ready-Made Clothing in London and Essex 1830–50’, Textile History, 26, no. 2 (1995), pp. 203–13.

16 M. Sugiura, ‘Garments in Circulations. The Economies of Slave Clothing in the Eighteenth-Century Dutch Cape Colony’, in Dressing Global Bodies, ed. B. Lemire and G. Riello (London: Routledge, forthcoming).

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Miki Sugiura

Miki Sugiura is Professor of Global Economic History in the Faculty of Economics, Hosei University, Japan, and currently Visiting Professor at University of Warwick (2018–2020). Her current research interest is the re-circulation of cloth and clothing during the eighteenth to twentieth centuries. She has published articles on slave clothing in the Dutch Cape Colony as well as mass consumption of re-fashioned kimono in post-war Japan, and is preparing a book on the comparative history of second-hand clothing circulation.