SKIN PERMEATION ENHANCEMENT BY FATTY ACIDS

Abstract

The present study elucidates the skin permeation enhancement effects of a number of fatty acids, i.e. straight-chain saturated (SFA), monounsaturated (MUFA) and polyunsaturated acids (PUFA). The effects were studied using human stratum corneum (SC) and p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) as a model permeant. The fatty acids in propylene glycol (FA/PG) were applied according to a pre-treatment/co-treatment protocol. SFA with 6 to 12 carbons exhibit a parabolic correlation between enhancement effect and chain-length, with a maximum at nonanoic-decanoic acids (with 9 and 10 carbons). All cis-6-, 9-, 11- or 13-octadecenoic acids (MUFA) enhance the permeation of PABA to the same extent. PUFA — linoleic (LA), α-linolenic (ALA) and arachidonic acids — enhance PABA permeation stronger than MUFA but additional double bonds do not further increase the degree of enhancement. The enhancement effects of fatty acids on the PABA penetration through SC are structure-dependent, associated with the existence of a balance between the permeability of pure fatty acids across SC and the interaction of the acids to skin lipids. Based on this and other studies, a set of mechanisms of action is proposed for fatty acids.