Green microparticles based on a chitosan/lactobionic acid/linoleic acid association. Characterisation and evaluation as a new carrier system for cosmetics

Abstract

The association chitosan/linoleic acid/lactobionic acid in aqueous solution spontaneously led to the formation of stable microparticles with a liquid hydrophobic core consisting of linoleic acid surrounded by a shell of chitosan/lactobionic acid. The originality of the microparticles arises from the fact that they are formed by the association of three ingredients of cosmetic interest, including a skin penetration enhancer (linoleic acid). Dynamic light scattering (DLS) measurements showed microparticles with a mean diameter of 1–2 μm. The presence of a hydrophobic liquid core was observed by transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The ability of these microparticles to encapsulate phenylethyl resorcinol, a hydrophobic skin lightener, was evaluated and its encapsulation was confirmed thanks to T₂ measurements and nuclear Overhauser effects (nOe) signs.

Keywords:

• Chitosan
• lactobionic acid/linoleic acid
• self-assembled microparticles
• phenylethyl resorcinol encapsulation

Acknowledgements

We gratefully thank Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique for the financial support, Pr Stéphane Viel from Aix-Marseille University for numerous helpful discussions and Stéphanie Balor (TRI-Toulouse) for the TEM images. We also thank Caren Cheryl Pembe, Alizé Malé and Aurélie Monié for their contribution to the achievement of this study.

Disclosure statement

The authors report no conflicts of interest. The authors alone are responsible for the content and writing of the paper.

Additional information

Funding

Authors gratefully thank Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique for the financial support.