Copying a Master: London Wholesale Couture and Cristóbal Balenciaga in the 1950s

Abstract

Cristóbal Balenciaga is widely recognized as one of the leading twentieth century couturiers. His dynamic designs redefined fashionable silhouettes internationally. This paper will consider the impact of his designs in Britain, focusing upon how London wholesale couturiers copied, adapted and took inspiration from his garments. The majority of London wholesale couturiers’ garments were copied or adapted from Parisian haute couture. They modified these designs to meet ready-to-wear manufacturing techniques, producing high-quality garments targeted at a middle-class consumer. By focusing on two silhouettes introduced in the late 1950s; the sack and baby doll, this paper discusses how these firms translated Balenciaga’s designs. The sack, in particular, was rapidly adapted by London wholesale couturiers who managed to successfully modify it for the ready-to-wear market. By drawing on a range of source material, including original garments, newspaper and magazine editorials, this paper will evaluate how Balenciaga’s design esthetic was translated by wholesale couturiers for consumption by a middle-class public in the 1950s.

Keywords:

• wholesale couture
• Cristóbal Balenciaga
• Frederick Starke
• copying
• haute couture

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Liz Tregenza

Liz Tregenza is a fashion and business historian. She currently works as a Collections and Learning Curator for Colchester and Ipswich Museums Service and runs her own vintage business. She previously worked as a lecturer, teaching at a number of British universities. Liz was awarded her PhD by the University of Brighton in 2018. [email protected] Twitter: @liztregenza Instagram: @liztregenza and @advantageinvintage