Vertical worlds: technology, hybridity and the climbing body

Abstract

This paper uses Actor Network Theory to study rock climbing as a technologically mediated pursuit and to argue that climbers are more-than-human fusions comprised of the human and non-human. Using empirical data collected via participant observation and interviews with rock climbers based in northern England, the paper highlights three case studies that help us rethink our situated activities as implicitly mediated and co-constituted by technology. First, it explores how new spaces of climbing co-produce climbing bodies resulting in differing and sometimes geographically specific skills and attributes. Second, the paper examines the climber's foot–shoe–rock assemblage in order to rethink the plasticity of body and technology as enhanced capabilities emerge through the co-evolution of the assemblage. Third, it investigates how bouldering mats extend safe levels of climbing performance whilst altering climbers' relations with the crag. The paper concludes by illustrating that the study of climbing provides insight and critique about the role of human/non-human agency and the situated dynamics of human–technological hybrids.

Cet article utilise la théorie de l'acteur-réseau pour étudier la varappe comme une poursuite technologiquement médiatisée et pour soutenir que des grimpeurs sont des fusions surhumaines qui se composent de l'humain et du non humain. En utilisant des donnés empiriques collectées vis-à-vis de l'observation des participants et des entretiens avec des grimpeurs basés au nord de l'Angleterre, l'article met en lumière trois cas d'études qui nous aident à repenser nos activités situées en tant qu'implicitement médiatisées et co-constituées par la technologie. D'abord, il explore comment de nouveaux espaces d'escalade coproduisent les corps de la varappe causant des qualités et des attributs différant et parfois géographiquement spécifiques. Ensuite, l'article examine l'assemblage du pied–chausseur–rocher du varappeur afin de repenser la plasticité du corps et de la technologie pendant que des capacités améliorées émergent au travers de la coévolution de l'assemblage. Troisièmement, il examine comment des matelas de bloc s'étendent au niveau de la sécurité de la performance de la varappe pendant qu'ils transforment les relations du grimpeur avec le rocher escarpé. L'article conclut en illustrant que l'étude de l'escalade donne des aperçus et des critiques sur le rôle de l'agencement humain, non humain et les dynamiques situées des hybrides humains–technologiques.

Este articulo se utiliza la Teoría del Actor-Red para estudiar escalada en montaña como una ejercicio mediado por la tecnología y para discutir que los escaladores con fusiones más-que-humanos hechos del humano y no-humano. Utilizando datos empíricos reunidos por observación participante y entrevistas con escaladores de montañas basados en el norte de la Inglaterra, el articulo se investiga tres casos prácticos que nos ayudan reconsiderar nuestros actividades situados como implícitamente meditados y co-constituidos por la tecnología. Primero, se explora como nuevos espacios de escalada coproducir cuerpos de escalada que resultan en habilidades y atributos diferentes que a veces son geográficamente específicos. Segundo, el papel se examina el ensamblaje del pie–zapato–piedra del escalador para reconsiderar la maleabilidad del cuerpo y la tecnología mientras que habilidades avanzados se aparecen por la co-evolución del ensamblaje. Tercero, se investiga como los colchonetas para escalada se extienden la actuación del escalador más allá que lo seguro mientras se alteran la relación entre el escalador y el peñasco. El articulo se concluye ilustrando que el estudio de escalada se ofrece entendimiento y crítica sobre el papel de agencia humana y no-humana y las dinámicas situados de híbridos humanos–tecnológicos.

Keywords:

• technology
• climbing
• embodiment
• assemblages
• co-production

Keywords:

• technologie
• escalade
• incarnation
• assemblages
• coproduction

Keywords:

• tecnología
• escalada
• encarnación
• ensamblaje
• coproducción

Acknowledgements

Many thanks go to David Atkinson, Sally Eden and Lewis Holloway for their insightful comments and feedback on earlier drafts of this paper. I would also like to thank the anonymous referees and editor for their advice. Thanks are also due to all those who I have climbed and talked with during this research.

Notes

1. British Mountaineering Council membership is used as a proxy figure for outdoor climbing participation as the UK climbing population has not been subject to systematic survey.

2. Chalk is used to enhance the grip of the climber's hand to the rock by drying sweat and increasing friction.

3. Climbing grading system where the higher number equates to greater technical difficulty.

4. Jamming is a climbing technique which involves inserting part (or all) of the body into a crack in order to make vertical progress.

5. The ‘traditional’ method that British climbing was learnt by novices climbing with more experienced practitioners.

6. Edging is a climbing technique whereby the very edge of the sole is placed upon a rock hold to support the climber's body weight.

7. Smearing is another climbing technique where pressure is applied to the foot to generate friction against the rock allowing for upward progression even when no obvious footholds are present.