Challenges and Scope of Development: A Case Study of Paithani Weavers of Maharashtra (India)

Abstract

India has a rich and heterogeneous textile craft heritage which is globally appreciated for its skills and craftsmanship. It plays a significant role in the economic development and employment generation of the country.

Paithani sari flourished in Paithan town during the Satavahana era in 200 BCE. It is a pride of Maharashtra, India. The Paithani weavers are currently having a lack of new orders in the global pandemic so they are selling the products at minimal cost to the middle man. The traditional weaver is suffering to get enough amounts even in non-pandemic conditions. The study aims to identify the reasons behind the financial crisis and loopholes in connections between the weavers and the market. The data is collected through the interviews conducted with thirty Paithani weavers. The analysis showed a strong correlation between crises and connectivity. The study aims to determine how the gap between weavers and customers can get connected in order to increase the individual income on a regular basis. The study concludes that weaver has to get further B2C marketing platforms such as e-commerce websites are necessary to make available for them to sell their original products direct to the customer. Thus the art will carry its 2200 years old tradition over the next generation.

Keywords:

• Paithani weaving
• Indian textile heritage
• handloom
• handloom crisis in pandemic
• opportunities for weavers

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank for inviting us to submit a paper Special Issue: Life, after Life: Textile Crafts in India and Communities of Practice. The paper, Challenges and Scope of Development: A case study of Paithani weavers of Maharashtra (India) is supported by the MGM University, Aurangabad, Maharashtra, India. I would like to extend my deepest gratitude to all the weavers, allied workers for the intensive interviews. I would be thankful to all weavers who granted the permission to use their images and their product images. Thanks to anonymous reviewers who provided valuable inputs to the paper, and to the journal editor Dr. Anuradha Chatterjee. I am especially grateful to MGM Paithani research center granted permission to use the images. I would also like to thank all authors, all e-portals who make the paper more descriptive.

Notes

1 Paithani—The silk sari woven on handloom embroidered with pure silk and pure gold thread.

2 Paithan—A town in Aurangabad district, Maharashtra, India, famous for Paithni sari for 2200 years.

3 Mahavastra—An important fabric in the wardrobe—The queen of saris.

4 Pratisthan—The historical name of Paithan.

5 The Satavahanas—The dynasty ruled over Paithan in 228 BCE.

6 Nevasa—A town near Paithan where Archaeology Dept. found the evidence.

7 Pendharies—An irregular military plunderer who attack and loot the towns in the seventeenth century.

8 Yeola—A town in Nasik district, Maharashtra, India. Now famous for Paithani sari.

9 Jari—A fine thread made of gold thin wire twisted around the silk thread.

10 Tillis—The tiny bobbins winded of silk thread of golden jari.

11 Pallu—A sari part draped on the shoulder decorated with intricate designs.

12 Tanais—A person who stretches the gold or silver wire into the thinnest thread.

13 Clusters—A group of artisans work together under one roof.

14 Bazaar—The place where weavers and merchants make deals of saris.

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Shubha Mahajan

Shubha Mahajan is a Textile Designer; she was freelancing surface designs for American and European Market through Heimetexil, Print-source and Premiere Vision since 2007. She has focused on sustainable clothing and reviving the oldest weaving craft like Himru and Paithani in Maharashtra, India. She has successfully revived the Khadi weaving and manufacturing in natural dyes process, by training local women and turning them into artisans. She is also engaged as a Trustee, of a NGO NAAM FOUNDATION to support the suicide affected farmer families and farmers in drought prone areas around Maharashtra. [email protected]