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Original Articles

Change of height of the solitary wave of large amplitude in the beach zone

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Pages 313-321 | Published online: 10 Jan 2009
 

Abstract

In this report the change of height of the solitary wave of arbitrary amplitude (but of smaller than the critical one at which a wave breaks) on a slope with a smooth change of depth is calculated on the basis of the energy balance equation. The wave breaking depths and amplitudes at which the breaking occurs are determined. It is shown that for practical calculations the dependence H~ h−1 (H‐wave height, h‐depth), which is valid for solitons of small amplitude, can be used for other than small heights.

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