Developing a Shade Range on Wool by Madder (Rubia cordifolia) Root Extract with Gallnut (Quercus infectoria) as Biomordant

ABSTRACT

Environmental issues inspire the revival of natural dyes that exhibit better biodegradability and more compatibility over synthetic ones. This research is aimed to investigate the effect of color and fastness properties on wool yarn substrate with natural anthraquinone colorants extracted from madder roots using gallnut (Quercus infectoria) extract as anchoring agent. Prior to the dyeing with Indian Madder (Rubia cordifolia), wool fibers were pre and post-treated with different concentrations of gallnut extract (viz 1–5% o.w.f) to get a broad range of beautiful and color fast shades. The feasibility of gallnut extract as an anchoring agent and its effect on color strength and color fastness to light, rubbing, and washing was investigated. Results of color characteristics showed that the color coordinates of the dyed samples were situated in the red-yellow quadrant of the CIELabcolor space. Bio-mordanting with gallnut extract produced shades of practically acceptable color depth, color fastness to light, washing and rubbing. Pre-treatment with gallnut extract is dominated over post-treatment in terms of better colorimetric and fastness results.

摘要

环境问题促进了天然染料的复兴，因为天然颜料比合成燃料具有更好的生物可降解性和相容性。本研究旨在使用五倍子（五倍子栎）提取物作为锚定剂从螨根提取的天然蒽醌着色剂，调查颜色和牢度性能对羊毛纱基质的影响。在用印度茜草（茜草根）染色之前，用不同浓度的五倍子提取物（即重量比 1-5%）对羊毛纤维进行预处理和后处理，以获得大范围的美丽、牢固的色调。在实验中，研究了五倍子提取物作为锚定剂的可行性及其对颜色强度以及对光、摩擦和洗涤色牢度的影响。颜色特征的结果表明，染色样品的颜色坐标位于 CIELab 颜色空间的红黄象限内。用五倍子提取物的生物媒染所产生色调的颜色深度以及对光、洗涤和摩擦的色牢度均在可接受范围内。研究表明，要获得更好的色度和牢度结果，用五倍子提取物进行预处理的效果明显优于后处理。

KEYWORDS:

• Biomordant
• color depth
• extraction
• fastness
• Natural dye
• Rubia cordifolia

关键词:

• 生物媒染剂
• 颜色深度
• 提取
• 牢度
• 天然染料
• 茜草

Competing interest

The authors have declared that they have no competing interest.

Acknowledgment

The authors are thankful to University Grants Commission for BSR Fellowship to Mohd Shabbir, and Dr B. S. Butola, Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi, for extending the Analytical facilities.