Sustainable Dyeing of Wool Fabric Using Kermes Oak (Quercus Coccifera L) as Source of Natural Colorant

ABSTRACT

The present study was concerned with the extraction of natural colorant from kermes oak (Quercus coccifera L.) fruits and the application of the extracted dye on wool fibers in the presence and absence of various mordants. The effect of dyeing time and dye bath temperature were investigated. The effect of mordant type with different mordanting methods on dyeing quality was also examined. Four salt metals were used in this study; ferrous sulfate, stannous chloride, alum, and copper sulfate. The effect of these mordants on color of dyed wool samples was investigated in terms of CIELab (L*, a*, b*) and K/S values. Light, washing, and rubbing fastness of dyed samples were evaluated according to ISO standards. The obtained shades for the control samples were brown; while the mordanted samples a wide range of light to dark brownish colors with a significant enhancement in color strength values.

The results indicated that mordanting gave deep shades and enhanced fastness properties.

摘要

研究了从kermes oak (Quercus coccifera L.)果实中提取天然着色剂的方法，以及在不同媒染剂存在和不存在的情况下提取染料在羊毛纤维上的应用. 研究了染色时间和染色浴温度对染色效果的影响. 考察了不同媒染剂类型、不同媒染剂用量对染色质量的影响. 本研究使用四种盐金属硫酸亚铁、氯化亚锡、明矾和硫酸铜. 用CIELab（L*，a*，b*）和K/S值研究了这些媒染剂对染色羊毛颜色的影响. 根据ISO标准对染色样品的耐光性、耐洗性和耐摩擦性进行了评价. 对照样品获得的色调为棕色;而媒染样品具有广泛的浅至深棕色，颜色强度值显著增强.

结果表明，媒染剂具有较深的着色性和增强的牢度.

KEYWORDS:

• Quercus coccifera L.
• salt mordants
• wool
• meta-mordanting
• fastness properties

关键词:

• 盐媒染剂
• 羊毛
• 媒染
• 色牢度

Acknowledgments

The authors express their gratitude to the Tunisian Higher Education and Scientific Research Ministry for the financial support.