https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2625-4063
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ABSTRACT
Nowadays, denim consumers are more interested in esthetic and garment comfort features such as softness, lightweight and smoothness. Coating method is widely used to impart esthetic and functional properties to denim fabrics. It is a known fact that the coating process adversely affects various mechanical and comfort properties of fabrics. This study presents identifying of the optimum levels of the coating process parameters for combination of tear strength and stiffness properties of cotton/elastane blend denim fabrics by Taguchi method (TM) and Grey relational analysis (GRA). Denim fabric samples were coated with a standard paste used for coloring the fabric surfaces by the Rotary Screen Coating Method. The selected parameters are weft density, drying temperature, viscosity of coating fluid, squeeze pressure and fabric passing speed. First, each output was individually optimized by TM, and then all outputs were optimized together taking into account the primacy of the goals by TM and GRA. For all outputs, the most effective parameters were found as the weft density and the fabric passing speed, respectively. Consequently, optimal common combination for multi-performances was found as 14 picks/cm weft density, 160°C drying temperature, 50 dPa.s viscosity, 3 bar squeeze pressure, 30 m/min fabric passing speed.
摘要
如今，牛仔布消费者对服装的柔软、轻便、平顺等美感和舒适性越来越感兴趣. 涂层法是一种广泛应用于牛仔布织物的美学和功能性的方法. 众所周知，涂层过程会对织物的各种力学性能和舒适性产生不利影响. 摘要采用田口法和灰色关联分析法确定了棉弹混纺牛仔布织物撕裂强度和刚度特性的最佳涂布工艺参数. 牛仔布样品涂上标准浆料，然后用旋转筛涂法对织物表面进行着色. 所选参数为纬纱密度、干燥温度、涂布液粘度、挤压压力和织物通过速度. 首先用田口法对每个输出进行单独的优化，然后结合目标的首位性，用田口法和灰色关联分析法对所有输出进行联合优化. 对于所有的输出，最有效的参数分别是纬纱密度和织物通过速度. 因此，最佳的综合性能组合为:14纬纱/厘米纬纱密度，160℃干燥温度，50 dPa.s粘度，3bar挤压压力，30m /min布料通过速度.