The Effect of Dyeing and Mohair/Wool Blend Ratio on Fabric Physical Properties

ABSTRACT

In this study, dyeing effects on the physical properties of blended fabrics containing different ratios of wool and mohair fibers were investigated in detail. Six types of fabrics were produced by using 100% wool yarns and 100% mohair yarns separately in either direction with different sequences. Then the fabrics were dyed with a wool reactive dye and physical properties were investigated before and after dyeing process. As a result of the study, wool/mohair blended fabrics could be used in the lightweight suitings since adding mohair in the fabric composition made the fabrics stiffer, less drapeable, more air permeable. Another important finding was that the color yield values of both front and back sides of the 50/50% blended fabrics were found to be quite close. From this point of view, if wool and mohair yarns were used symmetrically in the fabric structure, it would be possible to dye blended fabric uniformly in one bath. Otherwise, in case of weaving fabrics according to various designs using wool and mohair yarns separately in either direction unsymmetrically, two different tones could be obtained on the same fabric, known as a bicolor effect.

摘要

研究了不同比例羊毛和马海毛纤维混纺织物的染色效果. 采用100%羊毛纱线和100%马海毛纱线，按不同的顺序在任意方向上生产了6种织物. 采用羊毛活性染料对织物进行染色，并对染色前后织物的物理性能进行了研究. 研究结果表明，羊毛/马海毛混纺织物可以用于轻量西装 ，因为在织物成分中加入马海毛会使织物更加坚硬、悬垂性降低、透气性更强. 另一个重要的发现是，50/50%混纺织物的正面和背面的颜色屈服值非常接近. 从这个角度看，如果羊毛和马海毛纱线在织物结构中对称使用，就有可能在同一浴中均匀地染色. 否则，如果织物按照不同的设计，分别在任一方向不对称地使用羊毛和马海毛纱线，在同一织物上可以获得两种不同的色调，称为双色效果.

KEYWORDS:

• Wool
• mohair
• weaving
• dyeing
• bending
• drape

关键词:

• 羊毛
• 马海毛
• 织造
• 染色
• 弯曲
• 悬垂

Acknowledgments

We would like to thank Textile Engineer M.Sc. Hikmet Üçgül who helped in fabric production within the scope of the study.