https://orcid.org/0000-0003-0138-0060
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ABSTRACT
Although natural fibers used to be colored with natural dyes, today they have been replaced by chemical dyes and our cultural values have been abandoned. Metal salts harm both the nature and the human beings more than synthetic dyes do. This study examines the effects of both natural and chemical mordants on dyeing as well as the use of natural dye obtained from Sambucus Ebulus L. plant for dyeing Hemp fabric. In this study 100% hemp fabric was dyed with 15 different concentrations of 3 different mordant substances one of which was natural. Lightfastness and washing features of dyed hemp samples were done then color differences and color efficiency calculated by CIE L*a*b color space system were compared. For the optimization of dyeing parameters Grey Relational Analysis (GRA) method was used. Being one of the multi-criteria decision-making methods, GRA is the alternative and the most effective approach that can be employed in case of insufficient or discrete information, too much data, and vagueness. Experimental results show that the use of the natural mordant in dyeing the hemp fabric with Sambucus Ebulus L. plant gives better results in terms of color difference and color efficiency.
摘要
虽然天然纤维过去是用天然染料染色的，但今天它们已被化学染料所取代，我们的文化价值也被抛弃了. 金属盐比合成染料对自然和人类的危害更大. 本文研究了天然媒染剂和化学媒染剂对大麻织物染色的影响，以及Sambucus Ebulus L.工厂生产的天然染料对大麻织物的染色效果. 采用15种不同浓度的3种媒染剂对100%大麻织物进行染色，其中一种是天然媒染剂. 对染色大麻样品的耐光性和水洗性能进行了测试，比较了用CIE L*a*b色空间系统计算的色差和色效. 采用灰色关联分析法（GRA）对染色工艺参数进行优化. 作为多准则决策方法之一，GRA是在信息不足或离散、数据过多、模糊等情况下最有效的方法. 实验结果表明，用天然媒染剂对大麻织物进行Sambucus Ebulus L.染色，可获得较好的色差和显色效果.
Acknowledgments
“This study has been supported by Marmara University Scientific Research Projects Coordination Unit”. Project Number: FEN-C-DRP-030114-0010”
Author information
Meral ÖZOMAY
Meral ÖZOMAY She was born in Konya in 1983. She completed her undergraduate education at the Department of Raedy-Made Clothing Teaching in Vocational Education Faculty in Selcuk University. In the same year, she started her master degree in the Department of Clothing Industry and Arts in Institute of Social Science in Selcuk University and completed in 2008. Her PhD in Department of Textile Education in Institute of Pure and Applied Science in Marmara University. At the same time, she is working at the same department for fifteen years. Her academic interests include on regional fabrics, natural dyes and dyeing, textile conservation, textile restoration, multi criteria decision making method.
Mehmet AKALIN
Mehmet AKALIN He was born in Edirne in 1962. He completed her undergraduate education at the Department of Textile in Bolton University. In the same year, he started her master degree in Salford University and completed in 1987. His PhD in 1991. He worked at Bolton University during his graduate education. Later, after working at the university in England until 1992, he started to work at Marmara University in the same year. He became Assistant Professor at Marmara University Technical Education Faculty in 1994, Associate Professor at the same Faculty in 1995 and Professor in 2000. He worked as a Professor at Marmara University Technology Faculty. His academic interests include on regional fabrics, natural dyes and dyeing, textile conservation, textile restoration, cultural heritage, electromagnetic Shielding, electrospinning, technical textile.