Study on the Frictional Behavior of Cotton Spun Yarn (Unraveled from Fabrics) after Different Wet Processing Stages

ABSTRACT

Tearing strength of the woven fabric is an important mechanical property which directly decides the fabric serviceability. Yarn-yarn friction, one of the most important factors of fabric tearing strength, is a characteristic inherited from the surface and bulk properties of the interlacing yarns that decides the yarn interaction behavior. In this work, an experimental set-up was fabricated to measure the yarn-yarn friction on an UTM. By using this set-up, a study was carried out with the unraveled yarns obtained from commercial cotton woven fabrics consist of two sets of plain shirting fabrics, with different combinations of warp and weft type, i.e., ring-combed yarn, ring-compact yarn, and one set of plain suiting fabrics made of OE yarn. All these fabrics were processed through standard commercial chemical processing stages and samples were collected after each wet processing stages. It is found that, yarn-yarn co-efficient of friction (μ) of the compact yarn after finishing has the lowest μ, i.e., 0.32 as compared to ring and OE yarn μ of 0.36 and 0.45, respectively. However, after dyeing the μ is highest for all the yarns, i.e., μ of compact, ring and OE yarns are 0.35, 0.40, and 0.52, respectively.

摘要

机织物的撕裂强度是一个重要的力学性能，直接决定着织物的使用性能. 纱线摩擦是影响织物撕裂强度的重要因素之一，是由交织纱线的表面和体积特性所继承的决定纱线相互作用行为的特性. 在这项工作中，我们建立了一个实验装置来测量UTM上的纱线摩擦. 利用该装置，研究了由两组不同经纬组合的平纹衬衫织物（环锭精梳纱、环锭紧密纱）和一组由OE纱制成的平纹西服织物组成的商品棉机织物的开卷纱. 所有这些织物都经过标准的商业化学处理阶段，并在每个湿处理阶段后采集样品. 结果表明，整理后紧密纱的摩擦系数μ最低，为0.32，而环锭纱和粗纱的摩擦系数μ分别为0.36和0.45. 染色后，所有纱线的μ值最高，即紧密纱、环锭纱和OE纱的μ值分别为0.35、0.40和0.52.

KEYWORDS:

• Tearing strength
• yarn-yarn friction
• woven fabrics
• yarn structure
• unraveled yarn and wet processing

关键词:

• 撕裂强度， 纱线摩擦，机织物，纱线结构
• 散纱及湿加工