Air Permeability and Water Vapor Resistance of Differently Finished Cotton and Cotton/Elastane Single Jersey Knitted Fabrics

ABSTRACT

This study investigates the knitted fabrics’ air permeability and water vapor resistance as complex phenomena of the interaction between the fiber nature, fabric structural characteristics and, different wet processes. Bleaching and dyeing together with the content of elastane are the main factors determining fabric structural characteristics. 100% cotton fabrics have a higher intensity of warm/cool feeling since they have higher air permeability than elastane containing fabrics. The air permeability and water vapor resistance of elastane containing fabrics decreased after the wet processes, whereby the bleached knitted fabrics showed higher air permeability and lower water vapor resistance than dyed. Decreased air permeability and increased water vapor resistance of softened elastane containing fabrics are governed by the cationic softener pick-up mechanism. Namely, the cationic softener is deposited on the yarns’ surfaces; its hydrophobic carbon ends repel from each other. This acts as a barrier for air which contributes to an increase in the fabric water vapor resistance. The softened dyed knitted fabrics have lower air permeability and slightly higher water vapor resistance than softened bleached fabrics which may be attributed to the interaction between reactive dyestuff and cationic softener. The comfort properties quality of finished knitted fabrics decreased with elastane incorporation and with softening.

摘要

本研究探讨针织物的透气性与抗水蒸气性，作为纤维性质、织物结构特性与不同湿处理间相互作用的复杂现象. 漂染和弹性纤维含量是决定织物结构特征的主要因素. 100%纯棉织物比含弹性纤维织物具有更高的透气性，因此具有更高的冷暖感. 含弹性纤维织物经湿法处理后，透气性和抗水蒸气性能下降，漂白针织物的透气性和抗水蒸气性能均高于染色织物. 含弹性纤维柔软织物的透气性降低和抗水蒸气性能提高是由阳离子柔软剂的起染机理决定的. 也就是说，阳离子柔软剂沉积在纱线的表面; 它的疏水性碳端相互排斥. 这是空气的屏障，有助于提高织物的抗水蒸气性. 染色柔软针织物的透气性比漂白柔软针织物低，抗水蒸气性能略高，这可能是活性染料与阳离子柔软剂相互作用的结果. 随着弹性纤维的加入和柔软度的提高，针织物的舒适性和质量下降.

KEYWORDS:

• Single jersey
• cotton
• elastane
• air permeability
• water vapor resistance
• comfort properties

关键词:

• 单件球衣
• 棉花
• 弹性纤维
• 透气性
• 抗水蒸气性
• 舒适性

Acknowledgments

A. I., M. K. and K. A. acknowledge the support of the Ministry of Education, Science and Technological Development of the Republic of Serbia (Contract No. 451-03-68/2020-14/200135). The authors thank CiS Institute D. O. O. (Belgrade, Serbia) for water vapor resistance measurements.

Author statement

The manuscript entitled: “Air permeability and water vapor resistance of differently finished cotton and cotton/elastane single jersey knitted fabrics” has not been published elsewhere and it has not been submitted simultaneously for publication elsewhere.

Additional information

Funding

This work was supported by the Ministry of Education, Science and Technological Development of the Republic of Serbia [Contract No. 451-03-68/2020-14/200135].