A Comparative Study on the Performance of Different Exhaustive Agents Used in Modern Dyeing vis-à-vis Primitive Dyeing of Silk Thread

ABSTRACT

Arni, one of the major silk handloom weaving clusters of India, adopted a very primitive way of dyeing using open pan/vessels with direct heating that is invariably carried out without using any exhaustive agent as recommended in scientific way of dyeing the silk yarn. In order to educate the dyers about the quality characteristics of the dyed yarn material, dyeing trials of fully degummed tram silk were taken by using crimson, acid class of dye (CI 262085) with three exhaustive agents, viz., Glauber’s salt (sodium sulfate), sodium chloride, and unilevelon, a chemical preferred by certain dyer, and compared with the existing primitive way of dyeing method. The statistical analysis of the quality characteristics revealed that the color fastness to wash and rub, tenacity and elongation, and unlevelness index have significantly improved while the color fastness to light and color absorption in terms of CIE L*a*b* values have not shown any significant difference. The unilevelon has performed significantly better in terms of unlevelness index when compared to other/exhaustive agents.

摘要

是印度主要的丝绸手织机群之一，它采用了非常原始的染色方法，使用平底锅/直接加热的容器进行染色，这种染色方法通常不使用科学染色方法中推荐的任何穷举剂. 为使染色人员了解染色原料的质量特性，采用深红色、酸性染料（CI262085）和三种穷举剂（CI）对全脱胶真丝进行染色试验. 芒硝（硫酸钠）、氯化钠和联合利华，一种被某些染料所偏爱的化学品，并与现有的原始染色方法进行了比较. 质量特性的统计分析表明，耐洗刷色牢度、强伸性和不匀染指数均有显著提高，耐光色牢度和吸色性在CIE L*a*b*值上无显著差异. 联合利华穷举剂在不均衡指数方面的表现明显优于其他均衡/穷举剂.

KEYWORDS:

• Silk handloom dyeing
• fastness properties
• acid dye
• exhaustive agent
• un-levelness index

关键词:

• 丝绸手织染色
• 牢度性能
• 酸性染料
• 穷尽剂
• 不平度指数