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Research Article

Response Features of Silk Warp Yarns during Weaving

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ABSTRACT

Raw, undegummed organzine, and degummed organzine mulberry warp silk yarns were subjected to cyclic loading on tensile testing instrument by simulating the conditions of the loom during weaving. Minimum and maximum load for these cyclic loading were designated based on the theoretical base tension on the warp yarns and maximum tension at beat-up process. The speed of cyclic loading was attuned to match with the speed of the conventional power loom. The stress-strain curves of the yarns were analyzed and the deformation behavior was investigated with respect to yield point, maximum load, elongation, and energy. The response of silk warp yarn to fatigue developed during weaving due to its tensile deformation behavior was studied at the fabric formation stage. All the three warp yarns exhibited significant deformation during weaving. Cyclic loading had resulted in modification of the tensile deformation characteristics of the three different types of mulberry silk yarns and the deformations in the hookean region signified the phenomenon of strain hardening.

摘要

通过模拟织机在织造过程中的状态,在拉力试验机上对生丝、未胶合有机锌和脱胶有机锌桑经丝进行了循环加载试验. 根据经纱的理论基础张力和打浆过程中的最大张力,确定了这些循环载荷的最小和最大载荷. 循环加载的速度与传统动力织机的速度相匹配. 分析了纱线的应力-应变曲线,研究了纱线在屈服点、最大载荷、伸长率和能量等方面的变形行为. 研究了真丝经纱在织物形成阶段对由于拉伸变形而产生的疲劳的响应. 三种经纱在织造过程中均表现出明显的变形. 循环加载改变了三种不同类型桑蚕丝纱线的拉伸变形特性,胡克地区的变形表现为应变硬化现象.

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