Development and Characterization of Knitted Fabrics for Better Sensorial Comfort Properties in Sportswear by Using Grey Rational Analysis

ABSTRACT

Sportswear textile is the interface between consumers, clothing and the environment in conjunction with human physiology. In this study, multi-response optimization of sensorial comfort properties of terry and fleece knitted sportswear fabrics was planned by varying areal densities (GSM) and fiber content under Taguchi-based gray rational technique. The L₃₆ Taguchi orthogonal array was used to develop thirty-six samples out of which 18 samples were washed in order to determine the effect of washing, areal density and fiber content on sensorial comfort of fabrics. From the results it was revealed that washing process caused positive influence on crease recovery rate, smoothness score, and resilience while slight reduction in drapability and softness was observed after washing process. It was found that as the polyester content was increased from 20 to 40% the sensory characteristics of both terry and fleece fabrics were increased. Similarly, the areal density of fabric also caused significant influence on sensory attributes of clothing comfort. Based on Taguchi gray rational optimization, the optimum fabric parameters were found to be terry fabric, after wash, 240 GSM and 60/40 cotton: polyester content for simultaneously achieving good sensorial comfort properties for sportswear fabric.

摘要

运动服装纺织品是消费者服装和环境之间的界面,与人体生理学相结合. 在本研究中,采用田口灰色推理技术,通过改变面密度(GSM)和纤维含量,对毛圈和抓绒针织运动服面料的感官舒适性进行多响应优化. 使用L36田口正交表开发36个样品,其中18个样品经过洗涤,以确定洗涤面密度和纤维含量对织物感官舒适性的影响. 结果表明,洗涤过程对折皱回复率 平滑度评分和弹性有积极影响,而洗涤过程后悬垂性和柔软度略有下降. 结果发现,当聚酯含量从20%增加到40%时,毛圈布和抓绒织物的感官特性都会增加. 同样,织物的面密度也对服装舒适性的感官属性产生显著影响. 基于田口灰色理性优化,发现最佳织物参数为毛圈布水洗后240 GSM和60/40棉:聚酯含量,以同时实现运动服装织物的良好感官舒适性.

KEYWORDS:

• Sensorial comfort
• drape
• softness
• resilience
• smoothness
• knitted fabric

关键词:

• 感官舒适性
• 悬垂性
• 柔软性
• 回弹性
• 平滑性
• 针织物