Eco-Friendly Dyeing of Viscose Rayon Fabrics Using Anthocyanin from Hibiscus sabdariffa Linn

ABSTRACT

This paper investigates the feasibility of dyeing viscose rayon fabric with an anthocyanin solution extracted from H. sabdariffa L. calyces. For eco-friendly dyeing and improvement of the natural dye’s affinity to fabrics, natural mordants instead of traditional metallic mordants were applied. The effect of natural mordant types and mordanting procedures (pre-, meta- and after-mordanting) was evaluated by colorimetric measurement (CIE Lab and K/S values) and color fastness. Four natural mordants including alginate, walnut hull, lemon peel, and pinecone were used. The results show that the light and wash fastness (1–2 degrees according to the blue scale and the grayscale) of the un-mordanted viscose fabric were very low and unsuitable. Natural mordants, especially walnut husk and alginate, could improve color strength and color fastness. The light fastness value of the dyed fabric was improved, reaching a value of 5–6 in the presence of walnut, lemon, and pinecone mordants. The highest wash and light fastness was obtained when the after-mordanting method was used. Also, the use of walnut husk mordant increased the color strength and decreased the lightness of the dyed fabrics, as compared to other natural mordants, in all three methods of mordanting.

摘要

本文研究了用从沙棘花萼中提取的花青素溶液染色粘胶人造丝织物的可行性. 为了环保染色和提高天然染料对织物的亲和力,使用天然媒染剂代替传统的金属媒染剂. 通过色度测量(CIE Lab和K/S值)和色牢度评估天然媒染剂类型和媒染剂程序(媒染剂前、媒染剂后和媒染剂后)的效果. 四种天然媒染剂包括海藻酸钠、核桃壳、柠檬皮和松果. 结果表明,未经媒染的粘胶织物的耐光牢度和耐洗牢度(根据蓝标和灰标分别为1-2度)很低,不宜使用. 天然媒染剂,尤其是核桃壳和海藻酸钠,可以提高染色强度和色牢度. 在胡桃木、柠檬和松果媒染剂存在下,染色织物的耐光牢度值提高,达到5-6. 采用后媒介法时,可获得最高的洗涤牢度和耐光牢度. 此外,在所有三种媒染方法中,与其他天然媒染剂相比,核桃壳媒染剂的使用增加了染色织物的颜色强度,降低了织物的明度.

KEYWORDS:

• Natural dye
• natural mordant
• anthocyanin
• color fastness
• viscose rayon fabric

关键词:

• 天然染料
• 天然媒染剂
• 花青素
• 色牢度
• 粘胶粘胶纤维

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).