Effect of Blending Ratio and Sewing Characteristics on Performance Properties for Barki Wool/Polyester Fabrics

ABSTRACT

The coarse wool breeds have a very small share in the clothing market due to the difficulty of their weaving and sewing. Herein, we propose a new method for utilization of coarse wool fibers (Barki), after grading and sorting according to handle, fineness, and kemp content to separate the class of fine fleeces and patches with no kemp fibers. Barki wool fibers were then blended with woolen polyester fibers to produce 30:70% and 45:55% wool/polyester woven fabric. The properties of the produced fabrics from Barki wool/polyester yarns were compared with those of Merino wool/polyester fabric 45:55%. The effects of wool type, nature of sewing threads, stitch type, and the number of stitches per centimeter, on the seam slippage as well as other inherent properties of the fabrics, were studied. The results indicate that a fine soft grade of Barki wool could be used in apparel, and the least seam slippage was obtained upon using fabric and stitch from the same type of yarns using 5 stitches/cm. As the ratio of polyester fibers in the blended fabric increases, the seam slippage as well as, crease recovery, and tear strength get better except that for pilling resistance and drapeability.

摘要

粗羊毛品种在服装市场上的份额非常小, 因为它们的编织和缝纫非常困难. 在此, 我们提出了一种利用粗羊毛纤维 (Barki) 的新方法, 根据手感、细度和kemp含量进行分级和分类, 以分离无kemp纤维的细羊毛和补片. 然后将Barki羊毛纤维与羊毛聚酯纤维混纺, 生产出30:70%和45:55%的羊毛/聚酯机织物. 将Barki羊毛/聚酯纱线生产的织物的性能与美利奴羊毛/聚酯织物45:55%的性能进行了比较. 研究了羊毛类型、缝纫线的性质、针迹类型和每厘米针数对织物的接缝滑移以及其他固有性能的影响. 结果表明, 优质柔软的巴尔基羊毛可用于服装, 使用相同类型纱线的织物和针脚, 使用5针/cm, 可获得最小的接缝滑移. 随着聚酯纤维在混纺织物中比例的增加, 除了抗起球性和悬垂性外, 接缝滑移、折痕回复和撕裂强度都有所改善

KEYWORDS:

• Barki wool
• grading
• sorting
• woven fabric
• sewing
• stitch
• seam slippage

关键词:

• 巴尔基羊毛
• 分级
• 分类
• 机织物
• 缝纫
• 缝
• 接缝滑动

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).