2,476
Views
1
CrossRef citations to date
0
Altmetric
Special Issue: Sustainable Redesign of the Global Fashion System

A value-driven business ecosystem for industrial transformation: the case of the EU’s H2020 “Textile and Clothing Business Labs”

, , , , , , & show all
Pages 263-277 | Received 10 May 2021, Accepted 03 Feb 2022, Published online: 11 Mar 2022
 

Abstract

This article reports on the experiences and results of the European Union-funded Horizon 2020 project TCBL which has been successful in creating a European network of Textile and Clothing Business Labs aimed at the sustainable transformation of one of the most problematic industries in both social and environmental terms. The approach followed by the project was based on the diffused creation of value by and for all stakeholders, including consumers. This, in turn, implies a systemic transformation of business models, brought about by all players in the sector engaging in the experimentation of new processes and transaction patterns. In this way, all stakeholders were able to reap the benefits of innovation, and the lever of competitive advantage shifted from price to knowledge, collaboration, and shared values. In the meantime, the COVID-19 pandemic has had a devastating effect on the business models of the luxury and fast-fashion brands for which TCBL has aimed to offer an alternative path, also loosely in line with the provisions of the European Green Deal and the United Nations 2030 Agenda. Given the results attained, a two-pronged strategy for the constitution of a sustainable post-project TCBL ecosystem is now being implemented.

This article is part of the following collections:
Sustainable Redesign of the Global Fashion System

Correction Statement

This article has been corrected with minor changes. These changes do not impact the academic content of the article.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.

Notes

8 The Lead Partner of the TCBL Project was the City of Prato (Italy), at the heart of Europe’s largest textile district. These insights are the result of private conversations with several of the area’s leading textile companies, but they remain confidential so as to not jeopardize existing business relations.

16 The second-life business model is predicated on establishment of an online or offline marketplace enabling the exchange of T&C goods that are not new, either transferred hand-me-down, or sold for a fraction of their original value.

17 For more information on this and other projects in TCBL, see https://tcbl.eu/projects.

20 The do-it-yourself business model consists of the publication of digital clothing that is made available by independent designers for proximity production performed directly by customers using 3D printers, either at home or in next-door digital fabrication workshops (“fab labs”).

24 The predictive offering business model combines art (i.e., on-trend clothes) and science (i.e., algorithm deciphering personal styles and tastes) in order to surprise and delight customers through a recommendation engine while saving time.

25 See a presentation video at https://youtu.be/RkOysvc7XE0.

27 Championed by Rifó and Anneka Textile.

28 Championed by Hall Couture and CO-Factory.

29 Championed by Trafi Creatività Tessile and Lanificio Paoletti.

30 Championed by Coco&Rico and Katty Fashion.

31 Championed by My Yorkshire Wardrobe and Bivolino.

32 https://issuu.com/tcbl/docs/tcbl_business_model_magnets. For further information on individual “champions” (TCBL Associates) see https://tcbl.eu/directory

38 Further information on TCBL Labs can be found at https://www.tcbl.eu/labs

42 Further information on TCBL Associates is at https://www.tcbl.eu/directory

46 Evaluation of TCBL was entrusted to The Tavistock Institute of Human Relations in London. The relevant evaluation reports describing the methodological framework, evaluation plan, and evaluation results are listed as confidential.

47 Source: TCBL partner interviews, November 2015.

48 United States Department of Health and Human Services, Office of the Assistant Secretary for Planning and Evaluation.

49 The final sample size for the survey analysis was 66. This sample size includes cases that did not complete the outcome questions.

50 Social return on investment (SROI) was used to calculate a financial return for TCBL. This process used data drawn from a survey of TCBL businesses and combined their estimates of the tangible financial gains from being involved in TCBL – for example increase in turnover – with the financial gains on “intangibles” – for example, business benefits from experimentation. The SROI ratio of 0.716 measures the social impact value set against the initial investment amount. For a research project, this ratio would normally be expected to be negative. The figure of €16 million in total value generated extrapolates the estimated total value to all members of the TCBL ecosystem on the basis of the data derived from the survey.

Additional information

Funding

The “TCBL: Textile and Clothing Business Labs” project received funding from the European Union’s Horizon 2020 Programme for research, technology development, and innovation under grant Agreement [646133]. Despite this support, none of the opinions expressed in this article engage in any way the official standpoints of any EU institution.