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Articles

Women Climbers 1850–1900: A Challenge to Male Hegemony?

Pages 236-259 | Published online: 02 Sep 2013
 

Abstract

Winner of the Richard W. Cox Postgraduate Prize at the 2012 British Society of Sports History annual conference.

Middle-class women journeyed in increasing numbers to the Alps during the last half of the nineteenth century; a substantial minority climbed. They have received little attention from cultural, social or sport historians. Where they have been referenced, women climbers were seen either as an addendum to their fathers' and brothers' expeditions, as atypical ‘new women’ or simply non-existent until the early twentieth century. This paper will refute these premises, highlighting the wide variety of levels with which women engaged in mountaineering, from first ascents of major summits over 4,000 metres to lower level walks. It demonstrates these middle-class women ignored contemporary medical advice to avoid strenuous exercise and challenges the notion that climbing and the high Alps were a uniquely male space.

Acknowledgments

Thanks are due to The Alpine Club for allowing access to many photographs, journals and fuhrebucher. In particular the Librarian Tadeusz Hudowski and archivist Glynn Hughes. I am also grateful to Peter Marshall for allowing use of the photograph in .

Notes

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27. The Spence Watsons, Forsters and Tucketts were Quakers, The Wills family, Gaskells and Winkworths were Unitarians.

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32. A Tourist, ‘To The Editor of the Times’, The Times, September 5, 1854, Letters.

33. A work in progress as part of my PhD is collating for the first time all women's first ascents.

34. James Buzard, The Beaten Track: European Tourism, Literature, and the Ways to Culture, 1800–1918 (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1993).

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39. Crane, Swiss Letters and Alpine Poems, 115, 124, 133.

40. Crane, Swiss Letters and Alpine Poems, 164.

41. Crane, Swiss Letters and Alpine Poems, 125; Holworthy, Alpine Scrambles and Classic Rambles, 32.

42. Crane, Swiss Letters and Alpine Poems, 169.

43. Hornby, Mountaineering Records; Hilary M Thomas, Grandmother Extraordinary: Mary De La Beche Nicholl, 1839–1922 (Barry: S. Williams, 1979); Elizabeth Spence Watson, ‘Journal of Elizabeth Spence Watson’, personal diary (private ownership, 1865–7).

44. Peter Cliff, Mountain Navigation, 3rd edn (Great Britain: Peter Cliff, 1986), 32.

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48. Mrs Henry Freshfield, Alpine Byways or Light Leaves Gathered in 1859 and 1860 by a Lady (s.l.: Longman, 1861), 1–2.

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50. Ellen Pigeon, Peaks and Passes (The Alpine Club, 1885).

51. Anon, ‘Passage of the Sesia-Joch from Zermatt to Alagna by English Ladies’, The Alpine Journal 5 (1870): 367–72.

52. The sisters achieved 68 peaks over 10,000ft, 26 above 4,000m, 51 passes over 10,000ft and 33 lower summits.

53. Mary Paillon, ‘Les Femmes Alpinistes. Miss Brevoort’, Annuaire de Club Alpin Francais 26 (1899): 273–96; Hornby, Mountaineering Records; Spence Watson, ‘Journal of Elizabeth Spence Watson’; Gardiner, ‘In Memoriam. Miss Lucy Walker’.

54. Pigeon, Peaks and Passes.

55. Edward Whymper, ‘Two Lady Alpine Climbers’, The Girls Own Paper, December 15, 1885.

56. ‘A Climbing Girl’, Punch, August 26, 1871; Fanny Kemble, ‘Lines Addressed to Miss L.W.’, Temple Bar, March 1889.

57. Gardiner, ‘In Memoriam. Miss Lucy Walker’.

58. Gardiner, ‘In Memoriam. Miss Lucy Walker’ 98.

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61. Helmut Dumler and Willi P Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps (London: Diadem, 1993).

62. Mumm, The Alpine Club Register, 1857–1890, vol 2, 203.

63. Le Blond, The High Alps in Winter, 185–7.

64. Le Blond, The High Alps in Winter, v.

65. ‘Peter Bohren Fuhrebuche’, 1880–1855, L1, Alpine Club. London.

66. ‘Josef Imboden Fuhrebuche’, n.d., K21, Alpine Club. London; ‘Jacob Anderegg Fuhrebuche’, n.d., K21, Alpine Club. London; ‘Ferdinand Imseng Fuhrebuche’, 1881–1863, K39, Alpine Club. London; ‘Christian Almer's Fuhrebuche’” n.d., L7, Alpine Club. London.

67. The author noted only four women out of 70 people staying at a high alpine refuge near Chamonix in 2011.

68. David Robbins, ‘Sport, Hegemony and the Middle Class: The Victorian Mountaineers’, Theory, Culture & Society 4 (1987): 579–601.

69. Leslie Stephen, The Playground of Europe (London: Longman, 1904), 83.

70. Hansen, ‘British Mountaineering’, 3.

71. Hansen, ‘British Mountaineering’, 121.

72. Sara Mills, Discourses of Difference: An Analysis of Women's Travel Writing and Colonialism (London: Routledge, 1991), 40–42.

73. Five Ladies, Swiss Notes, 40; Holworthy, Alpine Scrambles and Classic Rambles, 32; Crane, Swiss Letters and Alpine Poems, 129, 138.

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76. Adolfus Warburton Moore, The Alps in 1864, vol. 2 (Oxford: Blackwells, 1939), 220.

77. Hornby, Mountaineering Records, 121; Cicely Williams, Women on the Rope (London: George Allen, 1973), 64.

78. Alison Blunt, Travel Gender & Imperialism: Mary Kingsley and West Africa (London: Routledge, 1992), 75–8, 62.

79. John Bicknell, Selected Letters of Leslie Stephen (Basingstoke: Macmillan, 1996), 357–9.

80. Stephen, The Playground of Europe, 83.

81. John Tosh, A Man's Place: Masculinity and The Middle-Class Home in Victorian England (New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1999), 111, 122.

82. W.E Utterson, ‘Jungfrau Conquered by an English Lady’, The Times, August 20, 1863; ‘Mountaineering in 1888’, The Morning Post, December 31, 1888; Anon, ‘Miscellaneous – News from Grindelwald’, York Herald, February 7, 1874; ‘Alpine Climbing’, Bell's Life in London and Sporting Chronicle, July 19, 1873.

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84. A Mourner, ‘Late Fatal Accident on Mont Blanc’, The Times, August 16, 1870; Le Blond, True Tales of Mountain Adventure for Non-Climbers Young and Old; Jackson, ‘A Winter Quartette’.

85. Anna Pigeon, ‘Letter to William Coolidge’, personal letter to W.A.B. Coolidge, September 9, 1896, A.Ms 2008.28, 3, Zentralbibliothek, Zurich; Five Ladies, Swiss Notes, 54.

86. McCrone, ‘“Play Up! Play Up! And Play the Game!”’; Hansen, ‘British Mountaineering, 1850–1914’; Ring, How the English Made the Alps, 104.

87. Julie-Marie Strange, ‘Menstrual Fictions: Languages of Medicine and Menstruation 1850–1930’, Women's History Review 9, no. 3 (2000): 607–28.

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