New approach to flap-type wavemaker equation with wave breaking limit

ABSTRACT

The limitations of the classical wavemaker theory motivated the development of a new equation that can directly predict both regular and broken waves based on the flap-type wavemaker setup. This is achieved first by coupling a commonly accepted wave breaking formula with the linear wavemaker equation. Both these equations were then rewritten in terms of the paddle stroke, water depth, and frequency instead of the wave number. Additionally, the validity range for each equation was explicitly defined to predict the maximum wave height before breaking. Comparison with both classical wavemaker theory and measurements confirms the reliability and accuracy of the proposed equation.

KEYWORDS:

• Water waves
• wavemaker
• wave generator
• linear wave theory
• wave breaking
• laboratory experiments

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.

Additional information

Funding

This work has been supported in part by Ministry of Science and Education of the Republic of Croatia under the project Research Infrastructure for Campus-based Laboratories at the University of Rijeka, number RC.2.2.06-0001, which was co-funded from the European Regional Development Fund. The support has also been provided in part by the University of Rijeka under the project Hydrology of Water Resources and Risk Identification from Floods and Mudflows in Karst Areas (13.05.1.1.03).