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Abstract
This study was designed to examine the reliability of peak finger force during 4-finger curling in a sample of expert level young competitive rock climbers. The participants (N = 31; 16 boys, 15 girls; 13.0 ± 2.7 years of age) completed 2 maximal finger curls with each hand. Finger force was measured via a piezoelectric force sensor fitted with a plate to accept the first digits of the 4 fingers. Force was applied to the plate/sensor by the fingers via a 3-sec maximal contraction. Reliability of the finger curl for each hand was estimated using a one-way repeated measure analysis of variance (ANOVA) and intraclass test-retest correlation. Reliability of the measurement for the left hand was estimated at R = .947 (.95 confidence interval, .891-.975). Reliability for the right hand was estimated at R = .902 (.95 confidence interval, .796-.953). No significant ( p > .05) differences were found between the 2 trials for either hand. Peak force measurement during maximal finger curls using this protocol and population was judged to be reliable.
