Street Style and Its Meaning in Postwar Japan

Abstract

The aim of this article is to analyze the meaning of Japanese youth subculture in the postwar period, looking at both the styles and the locations in which they appeared. The subject is approached through a semiotic analysis through which we shall compare Japanese and British subcultures. Considering the geographic distance and the cultural difference, it is surprising to find that British and Japanese subcultures share a common system of semiotic meaning.

We shall examine five Japanese subcultures: Roppongi-zoku, Miyuki-zoku, Harajuku-zoku, Futen-zoku, and Bôsô-zoku. It is possible to classify each of these tribes, or zoku, according to the moment of their appearance and to sartorial similarities with British subcultures. The Roppongi-zoku, Miyuki-zoku, and Harajuku-zoku were typified by a similar authentic code, which was close to the Mods. The Futen-zoku corresponded to the Hippie. The Bôsô-zoku had a semiotic equilibrium with Punk subculture.

As we shall discover, features of subcultural style in Japan appear to conform to the notion of “subcultural bricolage.” Though not every aspect of British cultural studies theory can be directly applied to subculture in Japan, the theoretical framework, which defines subcultural style as a signifying practice and symbolic struggle, is appropriate. The framework shall be reconsidered in the course of our investigation.

KEYWORDS:

• Japanese street style
• subculture
• youth culture
• consumer society
• globalization