“It Doesn't Taste as Good from the Pet Shop”

Abstract

This paper contends that male migrants living in New York who originate from the Ecuadorian village of Jima are reconstituted as both Jimeño men and campesinos (peasants) through their consumption of cuy (guinea pig) on ritual and familial occasions. Cuy is rich in cultural capital and symbolizes aspects of Jima's social and cultural life which are locally conceived as contributing to its distinct rural character, and its circulation and exchange plays a significant role in defining social networks. I argue that the gifting of cuy not only plays a critical role in continuing relations between male migrants and their kin, and that migrants actively participate in an intimate cycle of exchange which demonstrates their commitment to “home,” but also that this cycle helps both those in New York and Jima maintain a distinct identity as Jimeño campesinos.

Keywords:

• migration
• consumption
• cultural capital
• exchange
• “home”

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Emma-Jayne Abbots

Emma-Jayne Abbots completed her PhD at Goldsmiths College, University of London. Her thesis explored the manner in which local notions of modernity and tradition are formulated though the production, exchange and consumption of foods. She is a postdoctoral associate at the SOAS Food Studies Centre. Department of Anthropology, SOAS, Thornhaugh Street, London WC1 0XG, UK ([email protected]).