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Research Articles

The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers

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Pages 100-110 | Received 05 Jan 2012, Accepted 24 Jul 2012, Published online: 21 Aug 2012

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Read on this site (4)

Pedro Bergua, Jesús Montero-Marin, Alejandro Gomez-Bruton & José Antonio Casajús. (2018) Hanging ability in climbing: an approach by finger hangs on adjusted depth edges in advanced and elite sport climbers. International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport 18:3, pages 437-450.
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Jerry Prosper Medernach, Heinz Kleinöder & Helmut Heinz Hermann Lötzerich. (2015) Effect of interval bouldering on hanging and climbing time to exhaustion. Sports Technology 8:3-4, pages 76-82.
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Simon Fryer, Lee Stoner, Carl Scarrott, Adam Lucero, Trevor Witter, Richard Love, Tabitha Dickson & Nick Draper. (2015) Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences 33:5, pages 518-526.
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Articles from other publishers (33)

Anna E. Sjöman, Gudmund Grønhaug & Mikko V. Julin. (2023) A Finger in the Game: Sport-Specific Finger Strength Training and Onset of Injury. Wilderness & Environmental Medicine 34:4, pages 435-441.
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Marine Devise, Léo Pasek, Benjamin Goislard De Monsabert & Laurent Vigouroux. (2023) Finger flexion to extension ratio in healthy climbers: a proposal for evaluation and rebalance. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 5.
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David Colomer‐Poveda, Eva López‐Rivera, Tibor Hortobágyi, Gonzalo Márquez & Miguel Fernández‐Del‐Olmo. (2023) Differences in the effects of a startle stimulus on rate of force development between resistance‐trained rock climbers and untrained individuals: Evidence for reticulospinal adaptations?. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports 33:8, pages 1360-1372.
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Blai Ferrer-Uris, Denisse Arias, Priscila Torrado, Michel Marina & Albert Busquets. (2023) Exploring forearm muscle coordination and training applications of various grip positions during maximal isometric finger dead-hangs in rock climbers. PeerJ 11, pages e15464.
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Kaja Langer, Christian Simon & Josef Wiemeyer. (2023) Physical performance testing in climbing—A systematic review. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 5.
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Kaja Langer, Christian Simon & Josef Wiemeyer. (2023) Strength Training in Climbing: A Systematic Review. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 37:3, pages 751-767.
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Berit K. Labott, Steffen Held, Tim Wiedenmann, Ludwig Rappelt, Pamela Wicker & Lars Donath. (2022) Validity and Reliability of a Commercial Force Sensor for the Measurement of Upper Body Strength in Sport Climbing. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 4.
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Claudia Augste, Marvin Winkler & Stefan Künzell. (2022) Optimization of an Intermittent Finger Endurance Test for Climbers Regarding Gender and Deviation in Force and Pulling Time. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 4.
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Espen Hermans, Atle H. Saeterbakken, Vegard Vereide, Ivar S. O. Nord, Nicolay Stien & Vidar Andersen. (2022) The Effects of 10 Weeks Hangboard Training on Climbing Specific Maximal Strength, Explosive Strength, and Finger Endurance. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 4.
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Marine Devise, Clément Lechaptois, Eric Berton & Laurent Vigouroux. (2022) Effects of Different Hangboard Training Intensities on Finger Grip Strength, Stamina, and Endurance. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 4.
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Nicolay Stien, Atle Hole Saeterbakken & Vidar Andersen. (2022) Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing—A Mini-Review. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 4.
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Jiří Baláš, Jan Gajdošík, David Giles & Simon Fryer. (2022) The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State. Frontiers in Physiology 12.
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Eva López-Rivera, Juan José González-Badillo & Vanesa España-Romero. (2022) Which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in sport climbers?. Gait & Posture 91, pages 59-65.
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Eva López-Rivera. (2021) Fingerkrafttraining für Kletterer: Anleitung zur Verwendung eines Trainingsboards. Sportphysio 09:04, pages 183-189.
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Saskia Mundry, Gino Steinmetz, Elizabeth J. Atkinson, Arndt F. Schilling, Volker R. Schöffl & Dominik Saul. (2021) Hangboard training in advanced climbers: A randomized controlled trial. Scientific Reports 11:1.
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Nicolay Stien, Helene Pedersen, Vegard A. Vereide, Atle H. Saeterbakken, Espen Hermans, Jarle Kalland, Brad J. Schoenfeld & Vidar Andersen. (2021) Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers. Journal of Sports Science and Medicine, pages 438-447.
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Nicolay Stien, Tor Frithjof Frøysaker, Espen Hermans, Vegard Albert Vereide, Vidar Andersen & Atle Hole Saeterbakken. (2021) The Effects of Prioritizing Lead or Boulder Climbing Among Intermediate Climbers. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 3.
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J. Morenas, V. Luis & A. Ramos. (2021) DIFERENCIAS EN LOS PATRONES MOTORES DEL GESTO DE LANZAMIENTO EN ESCALADORES. Revista Internacional de Medicina y Ciencias de la Actividad Física y del Deporte 21:81, pages 15-28.
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Mara Assmann, Gino Steinmetz, Arndt Friedrich Schilling & Dominik Saul. (2020) Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes—A Cross-Sectional Study. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 18:1, pages 129.
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Ralf Buckley & Mahshad Akhoundogli. (2019) Tourism Affordances as a Research Lens. Journal of Travel Research 59:7, pages 1331-1334.
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Guillaume Levernier, Pierre Samozino & Guillaume Laffaye. (2020) Force–Velocity–Power Profile in High-Elite Boulder, Lead, and Speed Climber Competitors. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance 15:7, pages 1012-1018.
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J. A. Potter, C. I. Hodgson, M. Broadhurst, L. Howell, J. Gilbert, M. E. T. Willems & I. C. Perkins. (2019) Effects of New Zealand blackcurrant extract on sport climbing performance. European Journal of Applied Physiology 120:1, pages 67-75.
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Guillaume Levernier & Guillaume Laffaye. (2019) Four Weeks of Finger Grip Training Increases the Rate of Force Development and the Maximal Force in Elite and Top World-Ranking Climbers. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 33:9, pages 2471-2480.
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Yurii Vasil'evich Kotchenko. (2019) ANALYZING PERFORMANCE TIME OF WOMEN CLIMBERS PASSING THE CLIMBING ROUTE. Pedagogy. Theory & Practice Педагогика. Вопросы теории и практики Pedagogy. Issues of Theory and Practice Pedagogy. Theory and Practice 4:2, pages 38-42.
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Eva López-Rivera & Juan José González-Badillo. (2019) Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers. Journal of Human Kinetics 66:1, pages 183-195.
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John CroninTrent LawtonNigel Harris, Andrew KildingDaniel T. McMaster. (2017) A Brief Review of Handgrip Strength and Sport Performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 31:11, pages 3187-3217.
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O.A. Ryepko, Zh. L. Kozina, L.М. Suhareva, S.V. Kozin & A.A. Kostyrko. (2017) Порівняльна характеристика морфофункціональних та психофізіологічних показників елітних спортсменів – представників різних видів скелелазіння. Health, sport, rehabilitation 3:1, pages 58-70.
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Michael L. Anderson, Mark L. Anderson & Adam Sanders. (2016) An Innovative Hangboard Design to Improve Finger Strength in Rock Climbers. Procedia Engineering 147, pages 269-274.
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Jerry P.J. Medernach, Heinz Kleinöder & Helmut H.H. Lötzerich. (2015) Fingerboard in Competitive Bouldering. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 29:8, pages 2286-2295.
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Simon M. Fryer, Lee Stoner, Tabitha G. Dickson, Steve B. Draper, Michael J. McCluskey, Johnathan D. Hughes, Stephen C. How & Nick Draper. (2015) Oxygen Recovery Kinetics in the Forearm Flexors of Multiple Ability Groups of Rock Climbers. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 29:6, pages 1633-1639.
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Michael Anderson & Mark Anderson. (2015) A Novel Tool and Training Methodology for Improving Finger Strength in Rock Climbers. Procedia Engineering 112, pages 491-496.
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Elena Hernández Hernández, Pablo Caballero Blanco, Alejandro Gómez Rodríguez & Jesús Morenas Martín. (2014) Design and validation of an observational instrument to assess the technical execution in top-rope climbing. Journal of Human Sport and Exercise 9:1, pages 111-123.
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F. Mally, S. Litzenberger & A. Sabo. (2013) Surface Electromyography Measurements of Dorsal Muscle Cross-activation in Therapeutic Climbing. Procedia Engineering 60, pages 22-27.
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