A Revival for Thailand’s Textile Traditions: New Value for Local Materials (Eri Silk) through Art Practice

Abstract

This article is aimed at presenting information about Thai textiles as well as proposing practical guidelines on preservation and revival of Thailand’s artistic tradition of textiles knowledge in order to enhance the value of local material Eri silk. With employed research methods, the researcher conducted literature review from various sources of book and online material as well as field observation from a case study to summarize and analyze the data. This research purposes to understand material knowledge in textiles context and to highlight the significance of local material value. This article presents the current status of Eri silk in Thailand and important aspects of Eri silk fiber. It is a local material used by weavers in the Northeast of Thailand with its unique fibrous properties such as sustainable material, performance qualities, and ethical merit status. This study will point out the importance of the development of textile in Thailand base on Sufficiency Economy Philosophy¹. It is anticipated that the findings may help raise the material knowledge and contribution to the sustainable development in textile and fashion cultures in Asia, as well as in our contemporary world.

Keywords:

• Thailand
• textiles
• local materials
• Eri silk
• sustainable development

Acknowledgments

With the utmost gratitude, the author would like to deeply thank Professor Eakachat Joneurairatana, dissertation advisor, Design Arts (International Program) Division, Department of Decorative Arts at Silpakorn University, and thanks for local weavers in community villages; also many thanks to family and friends for valuable support and encouragement. The author wishes to thank Professor Lesley Millar, an English advisor, for her insightful comments on this study.

Notes

1 “Philosophy of Sufficiency Economy,” The Chaipattana Foundation (Retrieved 22 June 2020) Sufficiency Economy is a philosophy based on the fundamental principle of Thai culture. It is a method of development based on moderation, prudence, and social immunity, one that uses knowledge and virtue as guidelines in living. Significantly, there must be intelligence and perseverance which will lead to real happiness in leading one’s life.

2 Thai Wisdom means (1) the knowledge that is created and developed in the context of Thai cultural society following the development of society at different times. Thai wisdom is, therefore, something that shows the behavior and Thai people’s way of life-related to beliefs, values, traditions, arts, rituals, teachings. (2) The body of knowledge arising from the thinking process and the adaptation process of the people in Thai society in order to be able to live happily. (3) The body of knowledge that Thai people have invented, including literary inscriptions Life, innovation, and technology that collectively call it Thai culture.

3 The International Textile & Fashion Symposium—Thai: Surveying + Analyzing emphasizes on-field studying and analyzing process at two cultural sites: Udon Thani and Ratchaburi province which is selected as model study for seven international and Asean invited textile, textile-related discipline/interdisciplinary artists and fashion designers to explore its geographical, historical and functional background and reflect each individual perspective in relation to their own root as well as sharing the viewpoint on how certain traditions could connect to the contemporary sphere in the discussion panel of the symposium.

The 4 days event includes surveying program, an archival exhibition that exhibits collaborative artworks created by invited artists, surveyed materials and visual references; and a conference platform that gathers Thai/international textile/textile- related disciplines/interdisciplinary artists and designers, local practitioners, researchers, artists, designers and students to share, exchange the knowledge and vision through analyzing and reinterpreting Thai traditional textile and traditional practices toward contemporary perspective upon each individual professional role and practice.

4 “Jok” is a decorative weaving technique using discontinuous supplementary wefts. The “weft” is the horizontal threads woven across the width of the fabric, through the lengthwise “warp” yarn.

Additional information

Funding

The authors extend sincere thanks to the Royal Golden Jubilee PhD. Scholarship, the National Research Council of Thailand under the Ministry of Higher Education, Science, Research and Innovation, for this meaningful research fund [Grant No. PhD/0195/2561]. Research Fund of a Royal Golden Jubilee PhD. Scholarship from the National Research Council of Thailand under the Ministry of Higher Education, Science, Research and Innovation [Grant No. PhD/0195/2561].

Notes on contributors

Supawinee Charungkiattikul

Supawinee Charungkiattikul is a PhD candidate in Textiles at Design Arts (International Program), Faculty of Decorative Arts, Silpakorn University. She has been awarded a Royal Golden Jubilee PhD Scholarship from the National Research Council of Thailand under the Ministry of Higher Education, Science, Research and Innovation since 2019. Her most recent research was the project “Mud Tor Jai” modern heritage Thai textile with Thailand Textile Institute, a network agency under the Ministry of Industry Thailand. Currently, she is a Visiting PhD Research Fellow at the School of Craft and Design (Textile Department) at the University for the Creative Arts (UCA), UK at their Farnham campus. [email protected]

Eakachat Joneurairatana

Eakachat Joneurairatana is Chairman of PhD Design Arts (International Program), Faculty of Decorative Arts, Silpakorn University, Bangkok, Thailand. His main areas of research are Interior Design, Thai Modern Art & Design and he has published numerous articles and books in these areas. His recent publications include Thai Design Identity (2015), Home Interior 4.0 (2016) and In the Seeds of Design (2019). [email protected][email protected]