https://orcid.org/0000-0002-1781-5834
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ABSTRACT
In this study, the silk fabrics mordanted at the rates of 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 6%, 9%, 12%, 14%, 18%, 21%, 24%, 27%, 30%, 33% and 36% of alum (KAl(SO4)2.12H2O) were separately dyed with chrysin, quercetin dihydrate, 7,8-dihydroxyflavone and naringenin flavonoids. The CIEL*a*b* color values of the performed dyeings were measured and compared with each other. According to the results of the color measurement, the dyeings obtained using the mordant of 6% alum showed the best color values. The bonds relating to the amino acids present in Bombyx mori silk were characterized by FTIR. Also, the binding to the fibroin protein via Al-O and Al-N bonds of Al (coming from alum mordant) was determined. The amino acids including of pure silk were specified by 13C CP/MAS NMR. The coordination numbers of Al (III) ions in the complexes formed among the silk fibroin-mordant-dye were determined by 27Al MAS NMR.
摘要
本研究以1、2、3、4、6、9、12、14、18、21、24、27、30、33、36%的明矾(KAl(SO4)2.12H2O) 分别用金黄素、槲皮素二水合物、7、8-二羟基黄酮、纳林根黄酮对真丝织物进行了媒染剂染色。测量并比较所进行染色的CIEL*A*B*颜色值. 根据测色结果，以6%明矾为媒染剂所得染料的显色值最佳. 家蚕蚕丝中氨基酸的键以FTIR为特征. 此外，还测定了铝（来自明矾媒染剂）通过铝Al-O键和铝Al-N键与纤维蛋白的结合. 用13C CP/MAS NMR对真丝等氨基酸进行了表征.利用27Al MAS NMR核磁共振测定了丝素媒染剂中形成的配合物中铝离子的配位数.
Acknowledgments
The Turkish Cultural Foundation (TCF) and the Armaggan company are gratefully acknowledged (www.turkishculturalfoundation.org; www.tcfdatu.org; www. armaggan. com). Besides, the authors also want to thank Dr. Emrah Cakmakci from Marmara University (Istanbul-Turkey) because of his helpings in the FTIR analysis. The color measurements of the study were performed in the Department of Textile at Marmara University. The authors would like to thank Berrak Yildiz for a critical review.
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Ozan Deveoglu
Dr. Ozan Deveoglu obtained his BSc degree from the Department of Chemistry, Balikesir University (Turkey) in 2006 and his Master’s degree (MSc) at the Analytical Chemistry from Marmara University (Istanbul, Turkey) in 2008. He has PhD degree at the Analytical Chemistry from Marmara University in 2018. He was a Research Assistant at the Department of Analytical Chemistry at Marmara University between 2009 and 2017. Since 2017, he has been working as a Research Assistant at the Department of Analytical Chemistry at Cankiri Karatekin University (Turkey). His research focuses on characterisation of natural dyed textiles, analysis of lake pigments and natural dyes, natural dyeing of textiles, production of lake pigments and colour analysis of natural dyed textiles. His works are related to specifically natural dyes.
Recep Karadag
Dr. Recep Karadag graduated from Department of Chemistry (1982-1986) of Marmara University, Istanbul, Turkey. He received his Master’s degree in Chemistry from the Institute of Sciences in 1990, and in 1994, completed the Doctoral program (PhD) in Analytic Chemistry at the Health Sciences Institute. He became an Associate Professor in the area of Textile Engineer in 2004, and in 2009, became a professor. He is presently a member of Faculty of Fine Arts of Istanbul Aydin University and serves as a consultant for the Turkish Cultural Foundation, Cultural Heritage Preservation and Natural Dyes Laboratory, Istanbul, Turkey. He works in the areas of textile dyeing, conservation science, characterization analysis of dyes and cultural heritage objects, natural dyeing, analyses of dyestuffs, pigment and elemental analyses from textile, historical textile and archaeological art objects. He is the author of over hundred scientific publications. He is expert on the determination of textile, historical textile and archaeological art objects by using nondestructive and micro analysis techniques.
Alberto Spinella
Alberto Spinella manages the Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) Laboratory at the Centro Grandi Apparecchiature (CGA) – ATeN Center of the University of Palermo. His research activity focused on the characterization by liquid and solid state NMR of polymer matrix composites as well as structural and functional nano materials and nano composites and on the applications of NMR spectroscopy in the field of Cultural Heritage. He contributed to solve specific scientific problems by applying the most advanced NMR pulse sequences. Among other collaborations he has been responsible of a research commissioned by the “Laboratorio Arvedi” at the “Museo del Violino” in Cremona about supramolecular interactions between components of ancient varnishes for stringed musical instruments, in particular for the violins made by Antonio Stradivari. He is co-author of 29 publications on international journals and numerous communications at national and international congresses.
Emine Torgan Guzel
Emine Torgan Guzel was born in Istanbul in 1983. She completed her undergraduate education at the Department of Chemistry Teaching in Education of Ataturk Faculty in Marmara University. In the same year, she started her master degree in the Department of Analytical Chemistry in Institute of Science in Marmara University and completed in 2008. She is currently doing her PhD in Department of Conservation of Cultural Properties in Institute of Fine Arts in Gazi University. At the same time, she is working in Cultural Heritage Preservation and Natural Dyes Laboratory of Turkish Cultural Foundation (TCF) for ten years. She has over 30 articles published in national and international journals. She also presented her working in more than 50 congresses and symposiums. Her academic interests include on archaeometry, cultural heritage, conservation, material characterization, historical and archaeological textile analyses, dye and pigment chemistry, natural dyes and dyeing, natural organic pigment production.