Fiber Length of Eri Silk Cocoons and Influence of Staple Cutting during Spinning Preparatory Process

ABSTRACT

The range of single fiber length in both white and brick red eri cocoons is very high due to inactivity of Filipi’s gland of silkworm along with open structure of cocoons’ shells. This wide range can be reduced by staple cutting process after cocoons’ opening. The average fiber length is improved with more value of staple cut length. Due to staple cutting, short fiber generation occurred and descending trend was noticed with increase of staple cut length. Hauteur value is enhanced with increase of staple cut length and significant difference exists between 100 mm and 200 mm staple. Similarly, higher proportion of longer fiber percentage was revealed with increase of staple length. Since there is restriction of long fiber up to 200 mm for setting of rollers in drafting zone of speed frame and ring frame in case of long staple spinning, length can be set between 100 mm and 150 mm. Due to difference in measurement principle, the average fiber length assessed by BISFA oil plate method and Hauteur and Barbe evaluated by Almeter is not similar. So, expressions have been derived for prediction of Hauteur as well as Barbe from fiber length measured by BISFA oil plate method.

摘要

白茧和砖红色茧的单纤维长度范围都很高, 这是由于家蚕绒毛腺的不活跃和茧壳的开放结构造成的. 在开茧后, 通过剪绒工艺可以减少这一范围. 纤维平均长度随着短纤维切断长度的增加而提高. 短纤维的产生是由于短纤维的剪断而产生的, 随着短纤维切断长度的增加, 短纤维有下降的趋势. Hauteur值随短纤维切断长度的增加而增大, 100mm和200mm短纤维之间存在显著差异. 同样, 随着短纤维长度的增加, 长纤维所占比例增加. 由于长纤维纺纱时, 在速度框和环锭纺纱机牵伸区设置罗拉的长度限制在200mm以下, 长度可设定在100mm到150mm之间. 由于测量原理的不同, 用BISFA油盘法和Almeter法测得的平均纤维长度不同. 因此, 根据BISFA油盘法测得的纤维长度, 导出了预测带刺和带刺的表达式.

KEYWORDS:

• Alanine
• Barbe
• Filipi
• floss
• glycine
• Hauteur
• pelade
• Samia ricini
• spinneret

关键词:

• 丙氨酸
• 芭比
• 菲利皮
• 牙线
• 甘氨酸
• 佩拉德
• 喷丝板

Acknowledgments

The authors express their sincere gratitude to Dr. Prakash Basudevan (Director), Sri R. Pashupathy (HOD, Textile Physics) and Sri M.K.Vittopa (Scientific Officer) of the South India Textile Research Association, Coimbatore, India as well as Sri D.J.Burman Roy (Vice President) and other staff members of Wool Combing Division, M/s Jayashree Textiles, Rishra, Hooghly, West Bengal, India for providing permission and assistance regarding assessment of eri silk fibre samples. Also, sincere gratitude to Dr. Dipankar Chakravorty, Ex- Director, Central Tasar Research and Training Institute, Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, Nagri, Ranchi, Jharkhand, India and Dr. B.K.Singh, Ex- Director, Central Muga Eri Research & Training Institute, Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, Jorhat, Assam, India for their kind suggestions for persuasion of this research study. Thanks, are also to Sri D.K. Narzary, and Sri K. Kalita of M/s Indi- Luo Enterprise, Kokrajhar, BTC, Assam, India regarding procurement of eri cocoon samples. At last but not the least, the permission rendered by the Director, Central Tasar Research & Training Institute, Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, Nagri, Ranchi, India for pursuing this research study are gratefully acknowledged.