ABSTRACT
Dissolution of one component from multi-component yarn by suitable chemical treatment brought a significant change in structure that ultimately enhance the performance in terms of thermo-physiological behavior of fabrics. In this study, attempt has been made to develop a ranking of handloom fabric quality, which can be used for selecting fabrics based on thermo-physiological characteristics like thermal resistance, air permeability, water vapor permeability, compressibility, drying capacity, and bending rigidity. Technique for Order Preference by Similarity to Ideal Solution Method (TOPSIS) and Grey Relational Analysis Method (GRA) has been used for ranking 48 handloom samples (before and after treatment) made up of same warp yarn and different filling (for both machine and hand spun) prepared according to mixture design from different percentages of wool, polyester and poly vinyl alcohol (PVA). Ranking results obtained through TOPSIS and GRA show that after treatment of handloom fabric made up of hand spun yarn having less percentage of wool as a weft can be used in place of treated handloom fabric having machine spun yarn with higher percentage of wool. Results also indicate that dissolution of PVA component improves ranking in both fabrics either having machine spun or hand spun yarns as a weft.
摘要
通过适当的化学处理使多组分纱线中的一种组分溶解,使织物的结构发生显著变化,最终提高织物的热生理性能. 本研究尝试建立一个手织机织物品质的等级,可根据织物的热阻、透气性、透湿性、压缩性、干燥能力和抗弯刚度等热生理特性来选择织物. 采用理想解相似排序法(TOPSIS)和灰色关联分析法(GRA)对48个按不同羊毛配比配比设计的同经纱、不同纬纱(机纺和手纺)的手织机样品(处理前后)进行排序,聚酯和聚乙烯醇(PVA). 通过TOPSIS法和GRA法的排序结果表明,用含毛率较低的手纺纱织物经处理后,可以代替含毛率较高的机纺纱织物. 结果还表明,PVA组分的溶解提高了机织物和手织物的纬向排列.