The finger flexors occlusion threshold in sport-climbers: an exploratory study on its indirect approximation

Abstract

Blood flow partially determines specific climbing endurance (SCE) as it mediates oxygen bio-availability in the finger flexors. Blood flow is related to occlusion threshold (OT), which is defined as the contraction intensity at which intramuscular pressure exceeds perfusion blood pressure resulting in the cessation of local blood flow. The OT is represented as an inflection point on a force-time graph when isometric force is registered and applied through maximal and continuous tests. Endurance time (ET) to exhaustion is influenced by the relative isometric applied force and is different for each climber. The aim of this study was to explore whether an approximation of the finger flexoŕs OT in sport climbers through records of ET to exhaustion at different isometric relative intensities was possible. We measured maximum finger hang ETs at 6 intensities ranging from 85% to 35% maximal force in 34 sport climbers of advanced and elite level. The values obtained were analysed by two different methods in an attempt to determine a change in the shape of the curve in the intensity-ET relationship graphs that approximated the OT for each climber. The results suggest that the finger flexoŕs OT could be different among climbers, regardless of their strength and ability level. The presented methods do not accurately reflect the OT, but could indicate the intensity at which blood flow is restored in the active muscles. This is the first study to indirectly approximate the finger flexors OT in sport-climbers, a parameter that could be essential to assess SCE.

Keywords:

• Blood flow
• sport climbing
• specific endurance
• finger hangs

Acknowledgments

We greatly appreciate the effort made by all the climbers who participated in our study.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).

Supplemental data

Supplemental data for this article can be accessed here https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2020.1827047

Additional information

Funding

Jesus Montero-Marin is supported by the Wellcome Trust [grant number 104908/Z/14/Z].