Bespoke Solutions for Eliminating Ableist Bias in the Apparel Industry

Abstract

This paper seeks new solutions for greater inclusion of non-standard body types in the apparel industry. 3D body scanning, virtual design tools, and computerized 3D knitting are assessed on their ability to facilitate the mass production of inclusive apparel for persons with disabilities. Four research participants from the disabled community have worked with the author to co-design custom suit jackets as a test of new methodologies for industrial clothes making. After finding significant barriers to including persons with disabilities in industrial apparel development processes, each technology is tested for its inclusivity. Changes in how the apparel industry approaches and implements new digital tools are laid out and strongly encouraged. While capabilities are promising, each technology is hindered by the industry’s focus on traditional modes of clothing design, development and production.

Keywords:

• digital knitting
• fashion tech
• mass customization
• 3D modeling
• inclusive design

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author.

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Nicholas Paganelli

Nicholas Paganelli is a clothing designer turned creative technologist, with a primary interest in the technology and systems of clothing production. Nicholas’ MFA thesis at Parsons School of Design developed a systems design for the industrial production of accessible clothing for people with disabilities. Nicholas teaches digital knit programming in the School of Art Media and Technology at Parsons School of Design. [email protected]