Vogue and the possibility of cosmopolitics: race, health and cosmopolitan engagement in the global beauty industry

Abstract

This article explores the possibility of cosmopolitics, using the global magazine franchise Vogue as our starting point. Drawing on Saito's conceptualizations of cosmopolitanism, we investigate whether Vogue promotes cosmopolitan engagement, which we define as promotion of human diversity, cultural omnivorousness and cosmopolitics. Our analysis focuses on racial diversity and health, two moral issues recently addressed by Vogue itself. We present a content analysis of Vogue and media coverage of Vogue in China, the Netherlands and the USA. We conclude that Vogue, because of its global basis, high status and reliance on visual materials, has the potential to address and unite transnational publics around global issues. However, the success of such attempts depends on local cultural and institutional contexts and the role of local actors, who may adopt, but also reframe or ignore, attempts to promote cosmopolitan engagement.

Keywords:

• Vogue
• cosmopolitics
• cosmopolitanism
• beauty
• race
• health

Notes

1. Sources: http://www.condenast.com/brands/vogue/media-kit/print; http://www.condenastinternational.com/brand

2. Another prominent moral-political theme, notably in American Vogue, is sustainability and ecological awareness.

3. Including Hong Kong and Macao but not Taiwan.

4. The whole issue is available at: http://www.vogue.it/en/vogue-black/the-black-issue/2010/02/cover-black-issue

5. Since all persons quoted are Westerners, it could be a translation from a Western source. The article has no byline.

6. http://www.vogue.com.cn/magazine/current-issue/6446-2.html (translations from Chinese and Dutch are by the authors)

7. Interview J. Bunders, December 3, 2012.

8. http://www.vogue.com.cn/magazine/current-issue/news_1442cf60526124fa.html

9. http://usa.chinadaily.com.cn/2011-04/13/content_12319449.htm

10. For example: http://sn.ifeng.com/shishangpindao/shishangzixun/detail_2012_10/04/364447_0.shtm; http://people.ladymax.cn/201210/08-10212.html

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Giselinde Kuipers

GISELINDE KUIPERS is Professor of Cultural Sociology at the University of Amsterdam.

Yiu Fai Chow

YIU FAI CHOW is Assistant Professor at Baptist University Hong Kong.

Elise van der Laan

ELISE VAN DER LAAN is PhD Candidate at the Department of Sociology, University of Amsterdam.