Screening of ninety herbal products of commercial interest as potential ingredients for phytocosmetics

Figures & data

Table 1. Plants tested in this study, including their botanical name, family, organ/s used, voucher number, percentage of tyrosinase (Tyr IA %). and elastase inhibitory (Ela IA %) activity at 50 μg/mL, total phenolics (TPC) and flavonoids (TFC) content expressed in µg of gallic acid (GA) equivalent/mg of extract and µg of rutin (R) equivalent/mg of extract respectively.

Plant name	Family	Plant part	Voucher number	Tyr IA %	Ela IA %	TPC (µg AG eq/mg extract)	TFC (µg R eq/mg of extract)
Ananas comosus (L.) Merr.	Bromeliaceae	Stem	PU03555T	14	2	13.6 ± 0.8	0.8 ± 0.4
Andrographis paniculata (Burm. F.) Nees	Acanthaceae	Whole plant	PS16409T	14	0	60.3 ± 2.1	24.4 ± 2.2
Angelica archangelica L.	Apiaceae	Roots	PFU03844C	10	2	9.9 ± 0.3	0.4 ± 0.1
Angelica sinensis (Oliv.) Diels	Apiaceae	Roots	PU04044C	7	0	4.7 ± 0.1	0.7 ± 1.6
Arctium lappa L.	Compositae	Roots	PU06744C	24	7	35.0 ± 0.1	6.4 ± 0.3
Arnica montana L.	Compositae	Fruits	PZ05222I	24	8	49.5 ± 3.6	19.3 ± 0.3
Artemisia dracunculus L.	Compositae	Leaves	PZ19911T	16	6	60.4 ± 1.5	19.5 ± 2.3
Astragalus propinquus Schischkin	Leguminosae	Roots	PU06244C	17	6	9.8 ± 0.3	0.0 ± 0.0
Avena sativa L.	Poaceae	Aerials parts	PS06309T	8	14	25.6 ± 1.3	8.8 ± 0.2
Berberis vulgaris L.	Berberidaceae	Bark	PU07188T	13	2	30.5 ± 12.1	62.0 ± 3.6
Boswelia sacra Flueck	Burseraceae	Grains	PU30703I	19	0	1.4 ± 0.0	0.5 ± 0.7
Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze	Theaceae	Leaves	PU61111I	43	39	59.8 ± 3.7	26.2 ± 1.6
Capsella bursa-pastoris (L.) Medik	Brassicaceae	Flowered tops	PU08933T	8	0	40.8 ± 0.7	34.0 ± 1.6
Capsicum annuum L.	Solanaceae	Fruits	PU46555I	0	0	29.0 ± 2.2	7.0 ± 0.3
Ceterach officinarum Willd.	Aspleniaceae	Aerials parts	PFU59533T	24	63	84.7 ± 2.4	13.7 ± 0.5
Cichorium intybus L.	Compositae	Roots	BIOU15344C	0	0	6.8 ± 0.7	4.6 ± 0.2
Cinchona succirubra Pav.	Rubiaceae	Barks	PU15188C	23	16	82.9 ± 1.5	3.0 ± 0.1
Cinnamomum zeylanicum Blume	Lauracee	Barks	PU11188T	17	35	53.5 ± 1.5	5.3 ± 1.7
Citrus aurantium L. var. dulcis Hayne	Rutaceae	Flowers	PFU04922I	6	5	31.7 ± 0.7	14.2 ± 0.9
Citrus aurantium L. var. dulcis Hayne	Rutaceae	Zests	PFU04967T	8	11	21.4 ± 0.4	3.8 ± 0.4
Coffea robusta L.	Rubiaceae	Grains	PU09603C	23	22	100.9 ± 7.1	3.1 ± 0.0
Coriandrum sativum L.	Apiaceae	Fruits	PFU17955I	0	0	21.6 ± 0.5	3.1 ± 0.2
Crataegus rhipidophylla Gand.	Rosaceae	Flowers and leaves	PU08112T	23	17	77.9 ± 1.6	27.5 ± 2.5
Cucurbita pepo L.	Cucurbitaceae	Seeds	PU68277I	0	0	4.7 ± 0.3	0.2 ± 0.3
Curcuma longa L.	Zingiberaceae	Rhizomes	PU19344C	9	4	5.8 ± 0.1	3.3 ± 0.0
Cynara scolymus L.	Compositae	Leaves	PU11511T	22	19	83.7 ± 2.6	24.7 ± 0.5
Cynodon dactylon (L.) Pers.	Poaceae	Rhizomes	PU29499C	10	0	9.1 ± 0.2	0.9 ± 0.1
Dioscorea villosa L.	Dioscoreaceae	Roots	PS20044P	11	1	8.4 ± 0.2	0.0 ± 0.0
Echinacea angustifolia DC.	Compositae	Roots	PFZ20544C	14	21	22.2 ± 1.4	2.9 ± 0.2
Echinacea pallida (Nutt.) Nutt.	Compositae	Roots	PU20444C	7	0	21.5 ± 0.7	5.2 ± 0.4
Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench.	Compositae	Roots	PU20644C	12	0	42.1 ± 0.6	11.9 ± 0.2
Eleutherococcus senticosus (Rupr. & Maxim) Maxim.	Araliaceae	Roots	PU21144C	10	8	31.5 ± 3.9	1.5 ± 0.1
Elymus repens (L.) Gould subsp. repens	Poaceae	Rhizomes	PU29999C	17	3	13.8 ± 0.5	0.3 ± 0.0
Epilobium angustifolium L.	Onagraceae	Flowered tops	PFU21933T	18	12	97.9 ± 0.9	22.5 ± 0.3
Epilobium parviflorum Schreb.	Onagraceae	Flowered tops	PU21833T	14	6	107.7 ± 1.5	22.6 ± 4.5
Eschscholzia californica Cham.	Papaveraceae	Whole flowered plant	BIOD3744I	19	13	31.6 ± 0.4	29.8 ± 0.4
Foeniculum vulgare Miller	Apiaceae	Fruits	PU25677I	14	0	37.3 ± 0.8	8.8 ± 0.3
Fumaria officinalis L.	Papaveraceae	Flowered tops	BIOF26733T	11	17	41.1 ± 3.7	17.6 ± 0.6
Ginkgo biloba L.	Ginkgoaceae	Leaves	PU28911T	38	34	79.8 ± 1.5	25.8 ± 1.0
Glycyrrhiza glabra L.	Leguminosae	Roots	PU34344C	59	2	37.4 ± 1.2	30.4 ± 2.0
Handroanthus impetiginosus (Mart. ex DC.) Mattos	Bignoniaceae	Barks	PU60244C	12	4	27.6 ± 1.6	2.7 ± 0.1
Harpagophytum procumbens DC.	Pedaliaceae	Roots	PU05544C	23	4	44.5 ± 0.0	2.4 ± 0.1
Helichrysum italicum G. Don	Compositae	Flowered tops	PU21333T	20	6	88.1 ± 0.8	27.8 ± 1.6
Hibiscus sabdariffa L.	Malvacee	Flowers	BIOU31922T	13	0	27.8 ± 0.6	4.4 ± 0.0
Humulus lupulus L.	Cannabaceae	Flowers	PS36722I	15	0	32.0 ± 0.5	6.3 ± 0.2
Hyssopus officinalis L.	Lamiaceae	Flowers and leaves	PFU31322I	18	3	69.9 ± 2.3	2.1 ± 0.4
Ilex paraguariensis A. St. Hil.	Aquifoliaceae	Flowered tops	PU38533T	20	0	113.8 ± 6.9	18.0 ± 0.2
Lavandula angustifolia Mill.	Lamiaceae	Flowers	PFU32722I	11	0	71.9 ± 3.4	6.9 ± 0.5
Lepidium meyenii Walp.	Brassicaceae	Roots	BIOZ37044P	9	0	8.3 ± 0.6	0.2 ± 0.0
Malva sylvestris L.	Malvaceae	Leaves	BIOU37311T	3	0	41.2 ± 1.9	26.8 ± 2.5
Matricaria chamomilla L.	Compositae	Flowers	PFU10522I	26	0	54.2 ± 3.8	36.4 ± 1.2
Melissa officinalis L.	Lamiaceae	Leaves	PU38911T	23	12	124.3 ± 7.6	7.5 ± 0.1
Mentha x piperita L.	Lamiaceae	Leaves	PU39511T	18	4	113.9 ± 9.1	60.5 ± 5.2
Menyanthes trifoliata L.	Menyanthaceae	Leaves	PU62711T	11	3	30.6 ± 2.2	13.3 ± 1.1
Moringa oleifera Lamk.	Moringaceae	Leaves	PU40711T	6	12	54.1 ± 0.9	22.6 ± 3.1
Olea europaea L.	Oleaceae	Leaves	BIOF42911T	9	0	76.5 ± 0.3	14.3 ± 1.4
Orthosiphon aristatus (Blume) Miq.	Lamiaceae	Leaves	PU43711T	12	7	51.7 ± 0.7	9.6 ± 1.4
Panax ginseng C. A. Mey.	Araliaceae	Roots	PC29144T	0	0	8.6 ± 0.2	0.1 ± 0.1
Papaver rhoeas L.	Papaveraceae	Petals	PFU44708T	15	10	75.1 ± 2.5	39.2 ± 1.3
Paullinia sorbilis Mart.	Sapindaceae	Seeds	PU30577I	22	6	51.1 ± 0.5	4.1 ± 0.1
Peumus boldus Molina	Monimiaceae	Leaves	BIOU08511T	17	2	88.1 ± 0.4	23.8 ± 0.5
Piper nigrum L.	Piperacee	Grains	PU46303I	3	10	35.4 ± 0.4	6.4 ± 0.0
Plantago major L.	Plantaginaceae	Leaves	PFU46711T	12	5	59.9 ± 0.8	10.6 ± 2.0
Ptychopetalum olacoides Benth.	Olacaceae	Wood	PU41104T	14	8	33.0 ± 0.7	2.6 ± 0.3
Rheum officinale Baill.	Polygonaceae	Rhizomes	PFU51799C	30	20	82.4 ± 2.9	16.1 ± 0.2
Rhodiola rosea L.	Crassulaceae	Roots	PU53244T	75	86	123.6 ± 18.6	1.5 ± 1.2
Ribes nigrum L.	Grossulariaceae	Leaves	BIOF52511T	48	19	96.4 ± 5.9	29.9 ± 0.8
Rosa canina L.	Rosaceae	Cinorrodes/seeds	PFU53310I	0	0	75.7 ± 1.1	1.6 ± 0.0
Rubus idaeus L.	Rosaceae	Leaves	PU54711T	7	10	127.2 ± 6.7	33.9 ± 1.5
Salvia officinalis L.	Lamiaceae	Leaves	BIOF56111T	43	9	95.9 ± 3.4	43.9 ± 1.0
Sambucus nigra L.	Adoxaceae	Flowers	BIOF56322I	19	9	80.1 ± 2.3	191.7 ± 2.2
Satureja montana L.	Lamiaceae	Leaves	PU56911I	21	0	84.2 ± 1.1	32.9 ± 0.2
Schisandra chinensis Turcz. Baill.	Schisandraceae	Fruits	PZ57455I	12	16	10.1 ± 0.4	0.7 ± 0.0
Senna alexandrina Mill.	Leguminosae	Leaves	PU58311T	12	21	31.9 ± 1.1	37.5 ± 0.1
Serenoa repens (W. Bratram) Small	Arecaceae	Fruits	PU58755T	12	17	25.7 ± 1.4	3.0 ± 0.2
Silybum marianum (L.) Gaert.	Compositae	Fruits	BIOU12155I	27	0	44.2 ± 2.4	2.3 ± 0.4
Smilax aristolochiifolia Mill.	Smilacaceae	Roots	PU55944C	0	0	20.4 ± 1.4	3.4 ± 0.5
Theobroma cacao L.	Malvaceae	Beans	PS18677I	24	15	91.3 ± 6.1	3.1 ± 0.1
Tilia platyphyllos Scop.	Malvaceae	Flowers and bracts	PU61533T	35	24	91.2 ± 1.3	13.9 ± 0.2
Trifolium pratense L.	Leguminosae	Fruits	PU62822I	22	4	69.8 ± 23.7	25.3 ± 0.1
Trigonella foenum-graecum L.	Leguminosae	Seeds	PU25377I	0	0	25.2 ± 1.1	15.3 ± 0.3
Turnera diffusa Willd. ex Schult.	Passifloraceae	Leaves	PZ19711T	17	13	58.7 ± 2.6	50.6 ± 0.7
Uncaria tomentosa (Willd. ex Schult.) DC.	Rubiaceae	barks	PU63288T	16	4	40.4 ± 0.5	2.6 ± 0.4
Urtica dioica L.	Urticaceae	Leaves	PU43911T	5	0	56.0 ± 1.4	16.7 ± 0.4
Vaccinium myrtillus L.	Ericaceae	Leaves	PU40511T	21	12	116.5 ± 2.0	43.6 ± 0.6
Valeriana officinalis L.	Caprifoliaceae	Roots	PU63744C	16	0	13.6 ± 0.5	2.2 ± 0.3
Verbascum thapsus L.	Scrophulariaceae	Fruits	PU64122I	7	0	9.7 ± 0.9	23.4 ± 1.7
Viscum album L.	Santalaceae	Leaves and twigs	PU65711I	10	9	21.9 ± 0.1	5.2 ± 0.1
Vitex agnus castus L.	Lamiaceae	Fruits	PU01355I	8	5	49.5 ± 1.2	22.9 ± 0.5
Vitis vinifera L.	Vitaceae	Leaves	PU66711T	42	36	81.1 ± 2.7	56.5 ± 1.5

Figure 1. IC₅₀ values of tyrosinase inhibition (A) and IC₅₀ values of elastase inhibition (B) obtained for the most active extracts. Different letters within the same assay indicate significant differences in ANOVA test (p < 0.05). Results are expressed ad means ± SD of three independent experiments. COF: Ceterach officinarum DC.; CSI: Camellia sinensis Kuntze; CZE: Cinnamomum zeylanicum Nees; GBI: Ginkgo biloba L.; GGL: Glycyrrhiza glabra L.; RNI: Ribes nigrum L.; ROF: Rheum officinale Baill.; RRO: Rhodiola rosea L.; SOF: Salvia officinalis L.; TPL: Tilia platyphyllos Scop.; VVI: Vitis vinifera L.