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Regular Contributions: Article

Floppy Cloth: Textile Exhibition Strategies Inside the White Cube

Pages 412-434 | Received 18 Dec 2018, Accepted 22 Jan 2019, Published online: 30 May 2019

Figures & data

Figure 1 Installation view of Form through Colour: Josef Albers, Anni Albers and Gary Hume, East Wing Galleries, Somerset House, London (June 5 – August 31, 2014). Image courtesy of Christopher Farr.

Figure 1 Installation view of Form through Colour: Josef Albers, Anni Albers and Gary Hume, East Wing Galleries, Somerset House, London (June 5 – August 31, 2014). Image courtesy of Christopher Farr.

Figure 2 Installation view of Form through Colour: Josef Albers, Anni Albers and Gary Hume, East Wing Galleries, Somerset House, London (June 5 – August 31, 2014). Image courtesy of Christopher Farr.

Figure 2 Installation view of Form through Colour: Josef Albers, Anni Albers and Gary Hume, East Wing Galleries, Somerset House, London (June 5 – August 31, 2014). Image courtesy of Christopher Farr.

Figure 3 Installation view of 2121: Reiko Sudo & NUNO, University of the Creative Arts, Farnham, England (June 17 – July 23, 2005). Image courtesy of Lesley Millar.

Figure 3 Installation view of 2121: Reiko Sudo & NUNO, University of the Creative Arts, Farnham, England (June 17 – July 23, 2005). Image courtesy of Lesley Millar.

Figure 4 Installation view of Melbourne, Do You NUNO? by Reiko Sudo at the Australian Tapestry Workshop, Melbourne (October 6 – November 6, 2015). Image courtesy of the Australian Tapestry Workshop. Photo credit: John Goldings AM.

Figure 4 Installation view of Melbourne, Do You NUNO? by Reiko Sudo at the Australian Tapestry Workshop, Melbourne (October 6 – November 6, 2015). Image courtesy of the Australian Tapestry Workshop. Photo credit: John Goldings AM.

Figure 5 Installation view of Flurabuna, KANEKO Center, Omaha, Nebraska (February 6 – April 25, 2015). Image courtesy of the KANEKO Center.

Figure 5 Installation view of Flurabuna, KANEKO Center, Omaha, Nebraska (February 6 – April 25, 2015). Image courtesy of the KANEKO Center.

Figure 6 Installation view of Toril Johannessen: Unlearning Optical Illusions, Kabuso Centre, Norway (October 8 – December 11, 2016)

Figure 6 Installation view of Toril Johannessen: Unlearning Optical Illusions, Kabuso Centre, Norway (October 8 – December 11, 2016)

Figure 7 Unlearning Optical Illusions (detail).

Figure 7 Unlearning Optical Illusions (detail).

Figure 8 Installation view of Black, White, Shades of Gray: Anna Von Mertens, Lizabeth Oliveria Gallery, Los Angeles (January 29 – February 26, 2005). Photo credit Joshua White.

Figure 8 Installation view of Black, White, Shades of Gray: Anna Von Mertens, Lizabeth Oliveria Gallery, Los Angeles (January 29 – February 26, 2005). Photo credit Joshua White.

Figure 9 Installation view of Black, White, Shades of Gray: Anna Von Mertens, Lizabeth Oliveria Gallery, Los Angeles (January 29 – February 26, 2005). Photo credit Joshua White.

Figure 9 Installation view of Black, White, Shades of Gray: Anna Von Mertens, Lizabeth Oliveria Gallery, Los Angeles (January 29 – February 26, 2005). Photo credit Joshua White.

Figure 10 Installation view of Anni Albers (1899–1994) exhibition at the Tate Modern, London (October 11, 2018 – January 27, 2019). Photo credit: ©Tate, London 2018.

Figure 10 Installation view of Anni Albers (1899–1994) exhibition at the Tate Modern, London (October 11, 2018 – January 27, 2019). Photo credit: ©Tate, London 2018.

Figure 11 Losing the Compass, White Cube Mason’s Yard, London (October 8, 2015 – January 9, 2016). Photo courtesy of White Cube (Stuart Burford).

Figure 11 Losing the Compass, White Cube Mason’s Yard, London (October 8, 2015 – January 9, 2016). Photo courtesy of White Cube (Stuart Burford).

Figure 12 Losing the Compass, White Cube Mason’s Yard, London (October 8, 2015 – January 9, 2016). Photo courtesy of White Cube (Stuart Burford).

Figure 12 Losing the Compass, White Cube Mason’s Yard, London (October 8, 2015 – January 9, 2016). Photo courtesy of White Cube (Stuart Burford).

Figure 13 Installation view (detail) of East African khanga cloth in Migrations, Huddersfield Gallery of Art, England (October 22, 2016 – January 21, 2017).

Figure 13 Installation view (detail) of East African khanga cloth in Migrations, Huddersfield Gallery of Art, England (October 22, 2016 – January 21, 2017).

Figure 14 Installation view of Cohabitation: Hildur Bjarnadóttir, Trøndelag Senter for Samtidskunst, Trondheim, Norway (October 26 – November 19, 2017). Photographer: Susann Jamtøy.

Figure 14 Installation view of Cohabitation: Hildur Bjarnadóttir, Trøndelag Senter for Samtidskunst, Trondheim, Norway (October 26 – November 19, 2017). Photographer: Susann Jamtøy.

Figure 15 Installation view of Cohabitation: Hildur Bjarnadóttir, Trøndelag Senter for Samtidskunst, Trondheim, Norway (October 26 - November 19, 2017). Photographer: Susann Jamtøy.

Figure 15 Installation view of Cohabitation: Hildur Bjarnadóttir, Trøndelag Senter for Samtidskunst, Trondheim, Norway (October 26 - November 19, 2017). Photographer: Susann Jamtøy.

Figure 16 Installation view with background in focus of Migrations, Huddersfield Gallery of Art, England (October 22, 2016 - January 21, 2017). Left: Claire Barber You Are the Journey (An Embroidered Intervention) (2015), used ferry tickets, reclaimed yarn, pins, and needle weaving over used ferry tickets (detail); middle: Françoise Dupré, Stripes, started in 2009 in Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina with straps of bags used in OUVRAGE project - 2011 woven webbing, straps from carrier bags and thread, bamboo cane, and hooks; right: Françoise Dupré, Arabesques, Stars with Dragon (2014), wall hanging installation, stitched woven and printed polythene, polyester/cotton bias, thread, quilting pins, acrylic knitted flat braids, and six stainless steel screw rings.

Figure 16 Installation view with background in focus of Migrations, Huddersfield Gallery of Art, England (October 22, 2016 - January 21, 2017). Left: Claire Barber You Are the Journey (An Embroidered Intervention) (2015), used ferry tickets, reclaimed yarn, pins, and needle weaving over used ferry tickets (detail); middle: Françoise Dupré, Stripes, started in 2009 in Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina with straps of bags used in OUVRAGE project - 2011 woven webbing, straps from carrier bags and thread, bamboo cane, and hooks; right: Françoise Dupré, Arabesques, Stars with Dragon (2014), wall hanging installation, stitched woven and printed polythene, polyester/cotton bias, thread, quilting pins, acrylic knitted flat braids, and six stainless steel screw rings.

Figure 17 Installation view with foreground in focus of Migrations, Huddersfield Gallery of Art, England (October 22, 2016 - January 21, 2017). Left: Claire Barber You Are the Journey (An Embroidered Intervention) (2015), used ferry tickets, reclaimed yarn, pins, and needle weaving over used ferry tickets (detail); middle: Françoise Dupré, Stripes, started in 2009 in Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina with straps of bags used in OUVRAGE project - 2011 woven webbing, straps from carrier bags and thread, bamboo cane, and hooks; right: Françoise Dupré, Arabesques, Stars with Dragon (2014), wall hanging installation, stitched woven and printed polythene, polyester/cotton bias, thread, quilting pins, acrylic knitted flat braids, and six stainless steel screw rings.

Figure 17 Installation view with foreground in focus of Migrations, Huddersfield Gallery of Art, England (October 22, 2016 - January 21, 2017). Left: Claire Barber You Are the Journey (An Embroidered Intervention) (2015), used ferry tickets, reclaimed yarn, pins, and needle weaving over used ferry tickets (detail); middle: Françoise Dupré, Stripes, started in 2009 in Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina with straps of bags used in OUVRAGE project - 2011 woven webbing, straps from carrier bags and thread, bamboo cane, and hooks; right: Françoise Dupré, Arabesques, Stars with Dragon (2014), wall hanging installation, stitched woven and printed polythene, polyester/cotton bias, thread, quilting pins, acrylic knitted flat braids, and six stainless steel screw rings.

Figure 18 Installation view of Emelie Röndahl, Rana Plaza – the Collapse (April 24, 2013) (2015–16) in the Referensverk (Reference Works) exhibition at Handarbetets Vänner, Stockholm (April 6 – May 14, 2016).

Figure 18 Installation view of Emelie Röndahl, Rana Plaza – the Collapse (April 24, 2013) (2015–16) in the Referensverk (Reference Works) exhibition at Handarbetets Vänner, Stockholm (April 6 – May 14, 2016).

Figure 19 Installation view of Kärt Ojavee and Johanna Ulfsak, Save As exhibition at the Temnikova & Kasela, Talinn, Estonia (August 31 – October 27, 2018). Handwoven PVC, glass fiber, optical fiber, and carbon fiber.

Figure 19 Installation view of Kärt Ojavee and Johanna Ulfsak, Save As exhibition at the Temnikova & Kasela, Talinn, Estonia (August 31 – October 27, 2018). Handwoven PVC, glass fiber, optical fiber, and carbon fiber.

Figure 20 Installation view of Jessica Ogden: Still, Church Street, London (May 26 – June 23, 2017).

Figure 20 Installation view of Jessica Ogden: Still, Church Street, London (May 26 – June 23, 2017).