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Cloth and Culture
Volume 18, 2020 - Issue 3
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Articles

“Making It For Our Country”: An Ethnography of Mud-Dyeing on Amami Ōshima Island

Figures & data

Figure 1 Kazuhito Kanai, the Shachō (company president) of Kanai Kougei, dyeing Oshima tsumugi yarn in the dorota (mud-field).

Figure 1 Kazuhito Kanai, the Shachō (company president) of Kanai Kougei, dyeing Oshima tsumugi yarn in the dorota (mud-field).

Figure 2 The Ryūkyū islands.

Figure 2 The Ryūkyū islands.

Figure 3 Contemporary Tatsugo pattern featuring hibiscus, sotetsu leaves, and the pattern of habu skin.

Figure 3 Contemporary Tatsugo pattern featuring hibiscus, sotetsu leaves, and the pattern of habu skin.

Figures 4 From back left: Koji-ani and Nagata-san drying tsumugi yarn; workshop participant in yellow overall; Satoko-san dyeing tenugui; Kazu-san dyeing tsumugi yarn.

Figures 4 From back left: Koji-ani and Nagata-san drying tsumugi yarn; workshop participant in yellow overall; Satoko-san dyeing tenugui; Kazu-san dyeing tsumugi yarn.

Figures 5 Close up of Satoko-san and Kazu-san using the dorozome technique.

Figures 5 Close up of Satoko-san and Kazu-san using the dorozome technique.

Figure 6 Kurume gasuri design showing yarn bindings.

Figure 6 Kurume gasuri design showing yarn bindings.

Figure 7 A Kurume gasuri weaver re-aligns the weft yarns as she weaves.

Figure 7 A Kurume gasuri weaver re-aligns the weft yarns as she weaves.

Figure 8 A weaver on the shimebata loom, creating the tsumugi mat ready for dyeing.

Figure 8 A weaver on the shimebata loom, creating the tsumugi mat ready for dyeing.

Figure 9 A promotional leaflet from Okinawa c.1960, aimed at American tourists.

Figure 9 A promotional leaflet from Okinawa c.1960, aimed at American tourists.

Figure 10 A kimono from the 1950s.

Figure 10 A kimono from the 1950s.

Figure 11 A tsumugi tanmono is approved and stamped at the tsumugi union.

Figure 11 A tsumugi tanmono is approved and stamped at the tsumugi union.

Figure 12 Eriko Kanai wearing Oshima tsumugi at her friend’s wedding in the 1970s. Photo: Eriko Kanai.

Figure 12 Eriko Kanai wearing Oshima tsumugi at her friend’s wedding in the 1970s. Photo: Eriko Kanai.

Figure 13 Kanai Kougei’s employees during the time of my fieldwork.

Figure 13 Kanai Kougei’s employees during the time of my fieldwork.

Figure 14 Takahito-san drying tsumugi yarn. He begun in apparel but is now also a tsumugi apprentice.

Figure 14 Takahito-san drying tsumugi yarn. He begun in apparel but is now also a tsumugi apprentice.

Figure 15 The sales gallery at Kanai Kougei.

Figure 15 The sales gallery at Kanai Kougei.