Sustainable Natural Printing of Cotton Fabric Without Metal-Based Mordant

ABSTRACT

Endeavors on scoured and bleached cotton knit fabric to print with natural dyes and natural thickeners were made avoiding the use of detrimental metal-based mordanting agents. Three different natural dye sources (Rose flower-Rosa indica, Teak leaf-Tectona grandis and Tamarind-Tamarindus indica seed husk) extracted in aqueous medium were applied on 100% cotton knit fabric with three different thickeners prepared from the powder of Guar gum-Cyamopsis tetragonoloba, mango seed-Mangifera indica and tamarind seed-Tamarindus indicaon. The printed samples exhibited excellent wash fastness with grading 4–5 for all printed samples, light fastness 7 for tamarind seed husk and tamarind seed, rose flower and tamarind seed printed fabrics and rubbing fastness 4–5 for all printed fabrics. Dye-fiber bond formation was confirmed by FTIR, which revealed phenomena of strong covalent bond between dye and fiber molecules. Environmental impact assessments, chemical oxygen demand (COD) of 0–158 mg/L and total suspended solid (TSS) of 1–55 mg/L indicated that the wastewater generated was safe to discharge to the environment without treatment. Other essential features, determination of K/S value, CIE lab data and durability of printing paste demonstrated successful application of natural dyes and thickeners for printing cotton fabric.

摘要

为了避免使用有害的金属基媒染剂，在经过擦洗和漂白的棉织物上使用天然染料和天然增稠剂进行印花. 将在水介质中提取的三种不同天然染料源（玫瑰花、柚木叶、柚木和罗望子籽壳）应用于100%纯棉针织织物上，并使用三种不同的增稠剂，所述增稠剂由瓜尔豆胶、四角罗望子、芒果籽芒果籽和罗望子树籽制成. 印刷样品显示出优异的洗涤牢度，所有印刷样品的等级为4-5，罗望子籽壳和罗望子种子、玫瑰花和罗望子籽印刷织物的耐光牢度为7，所有印刷织物均为摩擦4-5. FTIR证实了染料纤维键的形成，揭示了强共价键的现象. 环境影响评估、化学需氧量（COD）为0-158mg/L和总悬浮固体（TSS）为1-55 mg/L表明，产生的废水不经处理即可安全排放到环境中. 其他基本特征、K/S值的测定、CIE实验室数据和印花糊的耐久性证明了天然染料和增稠剂在印花棉织物中的成功应用.

KEYWORDS:

• Sustainable
• natural printing
• mordant
• metal
• cotton fabric
• natural thickener

关键词:

• 可持续的
• 自然印刷
• 媒染
• 金属
• 棉织物
• 天然增稠剂

Acknowledgement

The authors are grateful to Department of Textile Engineering, Dhaka University of Engineering and Technology and National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research for providing lab facilities. Special thanks to the Applied Chemistry & Chemical Engineering, University of Dhaka for providing FTIR test for this research. The authors sincerely acknowledge the support of Dr. Taslim Ur Rashid (Associate Professor, Department of Applied Chemistry & Chemical Engineering, University of Dhaka, Bangladesh) and thank him for his immense help to explain the phenomena of dye-fibe interaction and FTIR spectrum. No funding was availed to conduct this research.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).