Investigating the Effect of Elastane Use on Tailorability and Appearance of Wool and Wool Blend Suiting Fabrics

Figures & data

Table 1. Properties of fabrics.

Groups	Fabric Type	Fabric Composition*	Weft Density (Picks/cm)	Warp Density (Ends/cm)	Areal density (g/m^2)	Construction
1	W1	100% Wool	27	29	330	2/2 Twill
	W2	98% W/2% EA	27,5	28	330	2/2 Twill
2	W3	71%W/29% PES	23	28	230	Plain
	W4	72%W/26%PES/2% EA	23	30	240	Plain
3	W5	50%W/50% PES	29	37	270	2/2 Twill
	W6	47%W/51% PES/2% EA	27	35	280	2/2 Twill
4	W7	24%W/76% PES	28	33	250	2/2 Twill
	W8	22%W/76% PES/2% EA	25	30	270	2/2 Twill
5	W9	74%W/18% PES/8%NY	37	39	245	3/1 Twill
	W10	65%W/24% PES/8% NY/3% EA	35	38	250	3/1 Twill
6	W11	90%W/10%NY	31	38	290	2/1 Twill
	W12	88%W/10%NY/2% EA	32	36	290	2/1 Twill

*W- Wool; EA-Elastane; PES-Polyester; NY-Nylon.

Table 2. Specifications of fabric yarns.

Fabric Groups	Fabric Code	Warp count (Nm)	Twist Direction	Warp Yarn Composition	(T/m)	Weft count (Nm)	Weft Yarn Composition	Twist Direction	(T/m)
1	W1	52/2	S	100% Wool	550	64/2	100% Wool	Z	660
	W2	52/2	S	100% Wool	550	60/2	96%W-4%EA	Z	667
2	W3	80/2	S	70%W-30% PES	750	70/2	70%W-30% PES	Z	750
	W4	80/2	S	70%W-30% PES	750	72/2	72%W-26% PES-2% EA	Z	750
3	W5	76/2	S	50%W-50% PES	667	76/2	50%W-50% PES	Z	750
	W6	76/2	S	50%W-50% PES	667	80/2	43%W-53%PES-4% EA	Z	750
4	W7	80/2	S	45%W-55% PES	667	90/2	45%W-55% PES	Z	667
		45/1		100% PES *		45/1*	100% PES *
	W8	80/2	S	43%W-56% PES	750	90/2	43%W-53% PES-4% EA	Z	750
		45/1		100% PES *		45/1*	100% PES *
5	W9	90/2	S	85%W-15% NY	800	90/2	60%W-40% PES	Z	750
	W10	90/2	S	85%W-15% NY	800	88/2	42%W-51%PES-7% EA	Z	750
6	W11	88/2	S	90%W-10% NY	750	90/2	90%W-10% NY	Z	750
	W12	88/2	S	90%W-10% NY	750	88/2	83%W-13%NY-4% EA	Z	750

*Continuous (Untwisted) Yarn.

Table 3. SiroFAST results of fabrics.

		1.Group		2.Group		3.Group		4.Group		5.Group		6.Group
Performed Test	Optimum Range	W1	W2	W3	W4	W5	W6	W7	W8	W9	W10	W11	W12
E100–1*(%)	%2< >%6	2,30	2,87	3,27	3,07	1,57	2,93	1,43	5,13	1,53	2,23	1,80	3,27
E100–2(*%)	%2< >%4	7,90	8,10	2,93	14,20	2,93	7,57	2,37	6,50	3,27	6,77	3,77	5,73
B1*(µN.m)	15< >5	11,31	17,06	7,17	5,84	7,00	7,50	5,80	7,00	6,60	5,90	7,67	15,25
B2*(µN.m)	15<>5	6,04	11,74	8,37	3,99	5,60	3,70	4,50	5,00	3,50	2,60	5,00	13,83
F1*(mm^2)	>0,25	0,23	0,62	0,45	0,16	0,13	0,29	0,09	0,51	0,18	0,23	0,10	0,86
F2*(mm^2)	>0,25	0,82	1,52	0,18	1,45	0,25	0,45	0,15	0,44	0,21	0,43	0,20	1,19
G(N/m)	30< >80	17,43	16,30	19,17	14,27	27,00	12,70	19,00	13,30	24,30	13,30	16,63	19,80
T2(mm)	.2< >1.4	0,83	0,76	0,22	0,32	0,32	0,36	0,26	0,33	0,21	0,45	0,26	0,35

*1-warp direction 2-weft direction.

Table 4. Statistical analysis results.

		Levene’s Test for Equality of Variances	t-test for Equality of Means
				95% Confidence Interval of the Difference
Fabric Grups	Performed Test	Sig.	Sig. (2-tailed)	Lower	Upper
1	B-1	,729	,001	-7,668886	-3,824448
1	B-2	,087	,009	-9,078742	-2,314591
1	E100-1	,036	,368	-2,640046	1,506713
1	E100-2	,262	,143	-,403985	1,937319
1	F-1	,074	,185	-1,047878	,281212
1	F-2	,162	,023	-1,239160	-,154173
1	G	,078	,564	-3,877960	6,144627
2	B-1	,094	,004	,690369	1,962965
2	B-2	,503	,000	5,332807	6,467193
2	E100-1	,430	,051	,067320	1,599347
2	E100-2	,871	,000	-11,953022	-10,580311
2	F-1	,025	,013	,144095	,442571
2	F-2	,206	,019	-,426363	-,066971
2	G	,059	,005	2,476015	7,323985
3	B-1	,740	,038	,047645	,989481
3	B-2	,231	,001	-2,344759	-1,238229
3	E100-1	,259	,000	1,032979	1,700354
3	E100-2	,789	,000	4,263259	5,070075
3	F-1	,599	,004	,078594	,217503
3	F-2	,610	,005	,120505	,347892
3	G	1,000	,000	-14,753392	-13,846608
4	B-1	,602	,013	,348119	1,616882
4	B-2	,780	,132	-,187701	,989269
4	E100-1	,609	,000	3,421807	3,911526
4	E100-2	,561	,000	3,663141	4,403526
4	F-1	,108	,000	,302185	,495422
4	F-2	,530	,002	,167327	,392413
4	G	1,000	,000	-6,153392	-5,246608
5	B-1	,531	,289	-1,528554	,595220
5	B-2	,040	,013	-9,307244	-1,972756
5	E100-1	,065	,002	-2,016961	-1,249706
5	E100-2	,020	,000	-15,275634	-9,791033
5	F-1	,653	,001	-,140695	-,079305
5	F-2	,021	,036	-3,934792	-,338541
5	G	,783	,000	3,700439	6,099561
6	B-1	,169	,000	-8,807244	-6,346089
6	B-2	,105	,000	-10,946605	-6,733395
6	E100-1	,016	,001	-1,559215	-1,374118
6	E100-2	,034	,016	-1,610088	-1,323245
6	F-1	,103	,000	-,857065	-,662935
6	F-2	,283	,000	-1,077714	-,888952
6	G	,063	,025	-5,687649	-,645684

Figure 1. Thickness results of fabrics.

Figure 2. Extensibility results of the fabrics.

Figure 3. Bending rigidity results of the fabrics.

Figure 4. Formability results of fabrics.

Figure 5. Shear rigidity results of fabrics.