Effect of Weft Yarn Type and Weaving Parameters on Surface Roughness and Drapeability of Woven Fabric

Figures & data

Figure 1. The clothing comfort triad reviewed from (Kamalha et al. 2013).

Table 1. Input yarn characteristics.

Yarn types	Count (Ne)	TPM	Tenacity (cN/Tex)	Elongation (%)	CVm%	Hairiness (H)
Rotor weft	16	890	7.45	4.496	15.47	5.73
Ring weft	16	831	8.14	5.334	18.19	8.57
Rotor warp	16	892	9.35	3.452	10.23	4.34

Table 2. Experimental factors and their levels.

Independent variables (factors)	Coded values and actual values		Dependent variables (Responses)
	Low(−1)	High (+1)
Weft yarn types, X1	Rotor Yarn	Ring Yarn	Fabric drape (Y1) Surface roughness (Y2)
Warp tension (X2) kN	1	2
Weft tension,X3	PFT/B-	PFT/B+T
Weft density (PPC), X4	14	18

Table 3. Sensorial comfort properties experimental results.

Samples number	Factors				Sensorial comfort properties
	Weft yarn types	Warp tension (kN)	Weft tension	Weft density (PPC)	DC (%)	SRA (µm)
						Warp direction	Weft direction
1	Rotor	2	PFT/B-	18	83.12	81.19	70.79
2	Ring	2	PFT/B+T	18	80.18	65.69	61.44
3	Rotor	1	PFT/B-	18	81.04	67.75	65.62
4	Ring	2	PFT/B-	18	79.39	62.47	59.31
5	Rotor	2	PFT/B+T	14	79.20	89.41	85.29
6	Ring	1	PFT/B+T	14	70.09	80.12	75.11
7	Ring	1	PFT/B-	18	76.87	60.14	55.11
8	Ring	1	PFT/B-	14	64.74	73.88	66.72
9	Ring	2	PFT/B-	14	74.17	83.13	73.98
10	Rotor	1	PFT/B+T	14	78.12	84.31	83.25
11	Ring	1	PFT/B+T	18	78.61	65.46	57.21
12	Rotor	1	PFT/B-	14	70.99	78.03	69.91
13	Rotor	1	PFT/B+T	18	84.28	75.89	63.61
14	Rotor	2	PFT/B-	14	77.90	85.55	78.01
15	Ring	2	PFT/B+T	14	76.29	80.11	78.04
16	Rotor	2	PFT/B+T	18	85.39	80.97	72.93

Table 4. The ANOVA (P) values of drape coefficient and surface roughness (in weft and warp direction).

Factors	DC%	SRA
		Warp way	Weft way
Model	0.0007*	0.0013*	0.0016*
X1	0.0004*	0.0004*	0.0012*
X2	0.0013*	0.0046*	0.0058*
X3	0.0041*	0.0196*	0.0104*
X4	0.0001*	0.0001*	0.0001*
X1*X2	0.1337	0.0797	0.5500
X1*X3	0.4469	0.5068	0.6825
X1*X4	0.6728	0.0151*	0.1250
X2*X3	0.0698	0.0537	0.5373
X2*X4	0.0188*	0.9329	0.7935
X3*X4	0.1607	0.7394	0.0281*

Table 5. The regression equation and R² values for drape coefficient and surface roughness of fabric.

Sensorial comfort properties		Regression Equation	R^2 (%)
Drape coefficient		$77.52-2.48\mathit{X}1+1.93\mathit{X}2+1.5\mathit{X}3+3.59\mathit{X}4-1.02\mathit{X}2\mathit{X}4$ (2)	98.38
Surface Roughness	Warp	$75.88-4.51\mathit{X}1+2.68\mathit{X}2+1.86\mathit{X}3-5.94\mathit{X}4-2\mathit{X}1\mathit{X}4$ (3)	97.98
	Weft	$69.77-3.91\mathit{X}1+2.7\mathit{X}2+2.34\mathit{X}3-6.52\mathit{X}4-1.79\mathit{X}3\mathit{X}4$ (4)	97.77

Figure 2. Drape coefficients of fabrics produced from ring and rotor weft yarn.

Figure 3. Effect of weft tension (a), warp tension (b) and weft density (c) on drape ability of fabric.

Figure 4. 3D surface plot for the interaction effect of warp tension and weft density on fabric drape.

Figure 5. The surface roughness of fabrics produced from ring and rotor weft yarn in weft (a) and warp (b) direction.

Figure 6. Effects of warp tension in warp way (a), weft yarn tension in warp way (b), warp tension in weft way (c), weft tension in weft way (d), weft density in warp way (e) and weft density in weft way (f) on surface roughness properties of the fabric.

Figure 7. Interaction effects of weft yarn type and weft density in warp direction (a) and weft tension and weft density in weft direction (b) on surface roughness properties of fabric.

Kamalha, E., Y. Zeng, J. Mwasiagi, and S. Kyatuheire. 2013. “The Comfort Dimension; a Review of Perception in Clothing.” Journal of Sensory Studies 28. https://doi.org/10.1111/joss.12070.

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