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Abstract
This study maps the innovation process corresponding to climbing’s inclusion in the Olympic Games and the resulting controversies. The French Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing (FFME) appears to be one of the most internationally active federations in the promotion of Olympic climbing. Based on the sociology of the actor-network theory (ANT), we have traced the creation of a network of actants to drive the innovation of Olympic climbing, as well as the controversies related to it. Our investigation adopts a qualitative approach based on the analysis of semi-structured interviews, institutional documents and press articles. Our results bring to light the development of controversy surrounding the inclusion of climbing in the Olympic Games. Such controversy gave rise to two sociotechnical innovations: the official speed climbing route (2005) and the invention of a combined format (2016), which, in turn, became the subject of further controversy when the practice was called into question.
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).
Notes
3 J Godoffe. GrandeVoix, “Escalade : la grande aventure de la compétition #2”, 2018
4 F. Carrel. Escalade, le Fol espoir Olympique. Grimper n°50, novembre 2000
5 Libération, 30 septembre 2002
6 C. Eckhardt, Grimper n°51, février 2001
7 L’escalade entre (enfin) dans l’ère olympique. L’Equipe, 4 août 2016
8 La carte “djeuns” pour les JO 2020 à Tokyo, le CIO a entériné l’entrée de 5 sports au programme olympique: karaté, baseball-softball, escalade, skate et surf. Objectif, séduire un nouveau public. L’Equipe, 4 août 2016
9 Grimper n°140, Interview with M. Fuselier, June 2012
10 Grimper n°170, January 2016
11 Grimper n°148, June 2013
12 Interview with Gilles Rotillon
13 Grimper n°146, March 2013
14 Grimper n°152, November 2013
15 EscaladMag n°17, avril 2008
16 Compétitions d’escalade. Direct’Cimes n°34, mars 2006
17 Interview with Jérôme Meyer, IFSC Sports Director
18 Interview with Pierre-Henri Paillasson, Direct’Cimes n°57, avril 2012
19 “We didn’t lose any money, I even got an extra executive…” Interview with PH Paillasson [2019]
20 Interview with Marco Scolaris
21 Pamphlet contre l’escalade Olympique, Lucien Martinez, Grimper n°204, mai 2020
22 L’escalade, un sport comme les autres dans la course aux Jeux ? Samuel Challéat, Grimper n°159, novembre 2014
23 Editorial. Frédéric Labreveux, Grimper n°152, novembre 2013
24 Tokyo Vice, Tokyo Blues. Du rififi à Tokyo. Grimper n°176, octobre 2016
25 Interview with Jérôme Meyer
26 On the subject, see la Charte d’Ethique de l’escalade, written by Marc le Menestrel at the request of the IFSC: http://climbing-ethics.galactron.org/Charte-d-ethique-de-l-escalade.html?lang=en
27 FFME President from 2005 to 2020
28 Interview with JL Decosse, Director General of Climb’Up.
29 Interview with Benoit Lacroix. Founder of climbing gym The Roof and current manager of Cabanes Urbaines (La Rochelle)
30 Direct’Cimes n°52, décembre 2010
31 Direct’Cimes n°51, octobre 2010
32 Interview with Olivier Lebreton. 27 February 2018, www.blozone.fr
33 A. Beauté, “la vitesse prend de l’allure” Direct’Cimes n°51, octobre 2010
34 Interview with Jérôme Meyer, IFSC Sports Director
35 Interview with Pierre-Henri Paillasson, FFME National Technical Director
36 A. Beauté, Direct’Cimes n°51, October 2010
37 Direct’Cimes n°44, Dossier Bercy, December 2008
38 A. Beauté, Direct’Cimes n° 51, octobre 2010
39 A. Beauté, Direct’Cimes n° 51, octobre 2010
40 Direct’Cimes n°55, septembre 2011
42 Interview with Domen Skofic. Grimper n°180, May-June 2017
43 Interview with Jérôme Meyer
44 Quel format pour l’Olympisme ? Grande Voix, 2018
45 Austria, China, France, Italy, Japan, Russia, Spain. Source: Mutualiser les forces pour définir le futur format Olympique. www.ffme.fr, 19/10/2016
46 Interview with Christopher Hardy
48 https://planetgrimpe.com/2016/08/07/lopinion-critique-dadam-ondra-jakob-schubert-lescalade-aux-j-o/
49 Grimper n°180, mai-juin 2017
50 “Quel format pour l’olympisme ?”, avril 2017