Away from Violence toward Justice: A Content Analysis of Cultural Appropriation Claims from 2013–2020

Abstract

The purpose of the study was to explore instances of cultural appropriation by fashion designers and brands (FD&B), identify cultural sources of inspiration, and, through a justice-centered lens, critique how practices of appropriation manifest as violence. A latent content analysis approach was utilized to focus on the underlying meanings of cultural appropriation in the fashion design practices of fashion designers and brands. Cultural appropriation practices manifested through three theme categories: a) the white lens, b) the capitalist motive, and c) negligence in the research process. Analysis showed that practices extend beyond the traditional definition of cultural appropriation, the apparel design process has connections to violent practices that manifest in cultural appropriation, and positionality plays a role in the apparel design process and research. Future areas of research are suggested concerning cultural appropriation research, the apparel design process, and apparel design education.

Keywords:

• cultural appropriation
• design inspiration
• media
• misappropriation
• fashion design
• apparel design

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.

Additional information

Notes on contributors

Kristian Hogans

Kristian Hogans is a doctoral candidate in the Department of Textiles, Merchandising, and Interiors at the University of Georgia. Her research interest is exploring praxis in the global apparel supply chain, connecting education and industry through historical, socio-cultural, and justice-oriented frameworks. She utilizes both quantitative and qualitative research methods. [email protected].

Laura McAndrews

Dr. Laura McAndrews is an Assistant Professor in Product Development and Design in the Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors at the University of Georgia. Her research interest is exploring the human dynamic of the global apparel supply chain including organizational behavior, sustainability, and under-represented supply chain members. She utilizes both qualitative and quantitative research methods. [email protected].