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Original Research Papers

Development of an imagery-based monitoring system for nearshore bathymetry by using wave breaking density

, ORCID Icon & ORCID Icon
Pages 308-320 | Received 27 Jul 2018, Accepted 19 Feb 2019, Published online: 17 Mar 2019

Figures & data

Figure 1. Fukude-Asaba Coast located 10 km west of the Tenryu River mouth. Sediments are transported from west to east. Waves and tide data used for the bathymetry estimation are obtained from the Ryuyo Wave Station located at the Tenryu River mouth and the Omaezaki tide gauge.

Figure 1. Fukude-Asaba Coast located 10 km west of the Tenryu River mouth. Sediments are transported from west to east. Waves and tide data used for the bathymetry estimation are obtained from the Ryuyo Wave Station located at the Tenryu River mouth and the Omaezaki tide gauge.

Figure 2. Map of Fukude-Asaba Coast, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan. Pipeline-based sand bypassing system (indicated by the orange line) carries sediments from west to east with a design rate of 80 × 103 m3/year.

Figure 2. Map of Fukude-Asaba Coast, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan. Pipeline-based sand bypassing system (indicated by the orange line) carries sediments from west to east with a design rate of 80 × 103 m3/year.

Figure 3. Rectified TIMEX image of eight cameras (top) and the bathymetry estimated by Okabe and Kato (Citation2017) by using fish finder log (bottom). The area is represented by the yellow rectangle in . The location of the outlet pipe of sand bypassing is indicated by the arrow. The red lines represent the cross-shore transects analyzed in this study.

Figure 3. Rectified TIMEX image of eight cameras (top) and the bathymetry estimated by Okabe and Kato (Citation2017) by using fish finder log (bottom). The area is represented by the yellow rectangle in Figure 2. The location of the outlet pipe of sand bypassing is indicated by the arrow. The red lines represent the cross-shore transects analyzed in this study.

Figure 4. Method to calculate the rapid increase of brightness.

Figure 4. Method to calculate the rapid increase of brightness.

Figure 5. Shadow zone behind a breaking wave leading to the overestimation of wave breaking density. θ shows the depression angle, H shows the wave height, r shows the distance between the camera and the wave, Hc shows the height of the camera.

Figure 5. Shadow zone behind a breaking wave leading to the overestimation of wave breaking density. θ shows the depression angle, H shows the wave height, r shows the distance between the camera and the wave, Hc shows the height of the camera.

Figure 6. Relationship between the overestimation rate and the distance r from the camera. The overestimation of wave breaking density can be compensated by r4.

Figure 6. Relationship between the overestimation rate and the distance r from the camera. The overestimation of wave breaking density can be compensated by r−4.

Figure 7. Change of wave height distribution before and after wave breaking. H shows the wave height and Hˉ shows the mean wave height.

Figure 7. Change of wave height distribution before and after wave breaking. H shows the wave height and Hˉ shows the mean wave height.

Figure 8. Change of wave height distribution and wave breaking density for an assumed topography.

Figure 8. Change of wave height distribution and wave breaking density for an assumed topography.

Figure 10. Wave conditions in October 2017 and the dates used to calculate water depth.

Figure 10. Wave conditions in October 2017 and the dates used to calculate water depth.

Figure 11. Rectified image of B2 Camera with the line used for the profile comparison.

Figure 11. Rectified image of B2 Camera with the line used for the profile comparison.

Figure 12. Estimated bathymetry before the typhoon (Camera B2).

Figure 12. Estimated bathymetry before the typhoon (Camera B2).

Figure 13. Nearshore profiles in the area covered by Camera B2 and C2. The bathymetry surveys were conducted in February 2017 and January 2018. Okabe’s data represent the bathymetry in the period from September 2016 to January 2017.

Figure 13. Nearshore profiles in the area covered by Camera B2 and C2. The bathymetry surveys were conducted in February 2017 and January 2018. Okabe’s data represent the bathymetry in the period from September 2016 to January 2017.

Figure 14. Time-averaged imageries for Camera B2 and C2.

Figure 14. Time-averaged imageries for Camera B2 and C2.

Figure 15. Coastal profile with wave breaking density for the area of Camera B2 before the typhoon in October 2017.

Figure 15. Coastal profile with wave breaking density for the area of Camera B2 before the typhoon in October 2017.

Figure 16. Coastal profile with wave breaking density for the area of Camera B2 after the typhoon in October 2017.

Figure 16. Coastal profile with wave breaking density for the area of Camera B2 after the typhoon in October 2017.

Figure 17. Comparison of bathymetries and wave breaking density before and after Typhoon No. 21.

Figure 17. Comparison of bathymetries and wave breaking density before and after Typhoon No. 21.

Figure 18. Comparison of profiles with depth sounding data in the area of Camera B2.

Figure 18. Comparison of profiles with depth sounding data in the area of Camera B2.

Figure 9. Topography calculation under different wave conditions (Tˉ is the mean wave period and H1/3 is the significant wave height).

Figure 9. Topography calculation under different wave conditions (Tˉ is the mean wave period and H1/3 is the significant wave height).

Figure 19. Bathymetry estimation using Camera C2. (a) Before typhoon (b) after the typhoon (c) 3 months after typhoon (d) 3 months after typhoon with selective averaging.

Figure 19. Bathymetry estimation using Camera C2. (a) Before typhoon (b) after the typhoon (c) 3 months after typhoon (d) 3 months after typhoon with selective averaging.