Rock on the Java coast: Reproduction of gedhog woven batik culture amidst global fashion development (Tuban community life ritual media)

Figures & data

Figure 1: map of Tuban regency.

Source: https://peta-hd.com/peta-kabupaten-tuban-hd-lengkap-gambar-dan-keterangannya/

Chart 1. Relationship between three visualization concepts and human life cycle stages.

Source: Researcher Analysis, 2023.

Table 1. Intercropped cotton growing system

Cotton plants in pot	Cotton plants using intercropping system	Cotton plants in the yard

Source: Author’s document, 2021.

Table 2. The process of making cotton flower-based woven fabrics

1	2	3	4	5
(1) Cotton plant (Gossypium hirsutum) with white flowers is named lawe, (2) Brown coloured cotton flowers are called lawa, (3–4) Yarn produced from spinning, and (5) Woven cloth ready to be processed using wax-resist method.

Source: Author’s documentation, 2021.

Table 3. Weaving and making batik activities

Production of gedhog woven in Tegalrejo Village	One of the activities of batik making in Gajih Village

Source: Author’s document, 2021.

Table 4. Activities of the wastra lovers communities

An example of event that put the focus on traditional cloth as part of modern fashion theme (Indonesian Fashion Chamber), 2022

Source: Author’s document, 2022– 2023.

Table 5. The natural environment as a source of ideas for decorative fabric

Ornaments of gedhog woven batik	Nature, flora and fauna
Details of Pecotot Beton motif (jackfruit) consisting the shape of kawung and bird	Source: http://www.traveljaya.com/2014/07/ macam-macam-burung-srigunting-yang-ada.html
Details of Sri Gunting bird, cotton flowers and leaves	Cotton flower petals and indigo leaves Source: Author’s documentation, 2021
Details of Ganggeng motif	https://fajar.co.id/2022/11/11/7-manfaat-menakjubkan-rumput-laut-wanita-pasti-suka/
Tilted tombstone motif	https://jateng.tribunnews.com/2013/12/18/warga-semarang-dilarang-pasang-kijing

Source: Author’s document, 2022

Table 6. Colour as symbol

Natural dyes: The colours used are eco-friendly dyes, sourced from nature. The red colour comes from noni root, the blue colour comes from indigofera leaves, and the brown colour comes from the wood of the soga tree.

Source: Author’s documentation, 2022

Table 7. Shapes as decorative elements

Decorative elements: The dominant decorative elements used on the cloth include stylized shapes of birds, flowers, leaves, and geometric shapes.

Source: Author’s documentation, 2022.

Table 8. Community environment in Tuban and Kerek Village

Tuban coastal area with fishing vessel	Environment of residential area
Kerek Village environment: lowland and rice fields.	Local people process fish as food

Source: Author’s documentation, 2020.

Table 10. The relationship between wastra, the three concepts of visualization, the ritual stages of the human life cycle, and the meaningness

Local Fashion (Variant motifs of Gedhog woven batik)	Three concept of visualization	Analysis	Five stages of human life	Meaning
Jangan Menir	Object: Long cloth, woven (size: 300 x 80 cm)	Woven cloth made by her mother when she was pregnant	1. Custom in the womb period Cloth used by pregnant women during ritual ceremonies. The vertical line represents the father (male), while the horizontal line represents the mother (female).	A woman carrying a baby wears a wastra patterned with Jangan Menir (a type of vegetable) to maintain her health so that the baby survives until birth, and the mother gets healthy food during pregnancy.
	Visual element: Line shape	Vertical dan horizontal line
	Color: White and blue	White symbolizes purity and nature, blue symbolizes life
Ganggeng	Object: cloth, gedhog woven batik (size: 300 x 80 cm)	A long cloth made with weaving and hand-drawn batik techniques	1. Custom in the womb period The cloth used by women when working in the fields or rice fields is made from cotton with weaving techniques, making it strong and thick. The ornaments are inspired by ganggeng, a type of water plant.	The ganggeng motif fabric is a hope for work that will continue to grow, and provide continuous sustenance.
	Visual element: Triangle, curve, plant stilation, leaf, flower, bamboo shoots	An ornamental variety that tells the story of the natural coastal environment
	Color: White, purple (red+blue), black	White symbolizes purity, while purple and black symbolize maturity and establishment.
Pecotot Beton	Object: cloth, gedhog woven batik (size: 300 x 80 cm)	Shawl fabric made with weaving and hand-drawn batik techniques	2.Custom of birth This cloth is used to wrap newborn babies as a symbol of purity and welcoming new life.	When the woman delivered the baby safely, the baby was wrapped in a wastra patterned with Pecotot Beton, like the background shape of a jackfruit seed that was ripe and ready to come out.
	Visual element: Jackfruit seeds, bird stilts, dots, and curved lines	A combination of jackfruit seed shapes that create a checkerboard shape as well as a background
	Color: White, light blue, and dark blue	White symbolizes purity; blue symbolizes growth, and life
Gringsing	Object: Sarong, batik tulis cotton cloth (size: 300 x 115 cm)	Cotton sarong cloth made with hand-drawn batik technique	3.Adulthood period A sarong used by boys after going through the circumcision ritual. The gringsing motif (small round shape) is used in the hope of a speedy recovery.	When a boy enters adulthood, circumcision event (cutting a little on his private part) should be done. So that his body grows to be healthy. By wearing a gringsing patterned cloth, it is hoped that the child will recover quickly and be healthy.
	Visual element: Phoenix bird, butterfly, plant, gringsing (round shape), curved line, dot	Stylized form of the phoenix symbolizes rebirth, hope, and good fortune
	Color: White, brown, blue and black	White symbolizes purity, brown symbolizes humility, blue symbolizes tranquility, black symbolizes strength.
Sri Gunting	Object: Long cloth, gedhog woven batik (size: 300 x 80 cm)	A long cloth made with weaving and hand-drawn batik techniques	4.Custom of marriage Period (Women) The cloth used for the bride is red during the marriage ritual ceremony.	When a woman will carry out a marriage ceremony, and she becomes a bride, she will wear a batik cloth with the Sri Gunting bird motif with the hope that she can live a married life in harmony until old age.
	Visual element: Stilasation of Sri Scissors bird, flower, plant, line, point, curve	Stilation of Sri Gunting (Dicruridae), a bird found in rice fields and fields, is believed to be an antidote to evil energy.
	Color: White and red	White symbolizes purity and red symbolizes youthfulness.
Sri Gunting	Object: Long cloth, gedhog woven batik (size: 300 x 80 cm)	A long cloth made with weaving and hand-drawn batik techniques	4.Custom of marriage Period (Men) The cloth used for the groom is dark blue, during the marriage ritual ceremony	When a man performs a marriage ceremony, when he becomes a bride, he will wear a batik fabric with the Sri Gunting bird design with the aim of living a happy married life till old age.
	Visual element: Stilasation of Sri Scissors bird, flower, plant, line, point, curve, triangle	Stilation of Sri Gunting (Dicruridae), a bird found in rice fields and fields, is believed to be an antidote to evil energy.
	Color: White, light blue and dark blue	The white color symbolizes purity, and the dark blue color symbolizes maturity.
Kijing Miring	Object: Long cloth, gedhog woven batik (size: 300 x 80 cm)	A long cloth made with weaving and hand-drawn batik techniques	5.Custom of death This cloth is used for death rituals. The shape of the vertical and horizontal lines, with additional dots forming a diagonal triangle, symbolizes the tomb (kijing miring)	When a family member passes away, the body will be wrapped in batik cloth so that the burial process can be carried out correctly, swiftly, and flawlessly without causing the surviving family any inconvenience.
	Visual element: Lines and points	The vertical and horizontal lines are formed due to the weaving technique, and the dot shapes are made with the hand-drawn batik technique.
	Color: White, dark red, and black	White symbolizes purity; crimson and black symbolize establishment, and death.

Source: Researcher’s Analysis, 2023.

Chart 2. Human life cycle.

Source: Researcher’s analysis

Table 9. Wastra (high quality traditional cloth) as media of human life cycle ritual

Pecotot Beton motif (jackfruit motif)	Srigunting Bird motif
Ganggeng Motif (seaweed plants motif)	Tilted Gravestode Motif

Source: Author’s document, 2022.