Rethinking Flexibility: The Case of the Apparel Industry

Abstract

This paper analyzes new forms of flexibility in the US apparel industry and the consequences of this flexibility for labor market segmentation. Post-Fordist flexible work organization takes place only in those enterprises that occupy privileged positions in newly established hierarchical networks of firms. Subcontracting work to smaller firms results in labor segmentation between rather than within firms. Dominant firms in hierarchical networks gain production efficiencies similar to that attained by a fixed hierarchy within Fordist type enterprises. For most apparel workers, the new production system could best be described as neo-Fordist, since it appears to be predicated on routinization and work intensification.

Keywords:

• flexibility
• labor segmentation
• apparel
• networks
• work routinization
• deskilling