Troubling gender binaries in schools: from sumptuary law to sartorial agency

Abstract

This article derives from a larger study on gender fluidity to focus primarily on the sartorial aspects of gender. Secondary school students were interviewed to investigate how they speak about gender expression, performance and fluidity in their school. Using a Foucaultian analytic of subjectivation through regulated surveillance and Butler's theory of gender performativity and the abject, as well as queer theorists such as Wilchins, my aim is to draw attention to the need to de-naturalize the notion of a gender binary. Furthermore, I draw on Garber's analytic framework of sumptuary law to provide insight into the limitations of gender expression and the potential for sartorial agency. The educational significance lies in the need to disrupt the heteronormative education system to resist the exclusion of gender non-conforming students.

Keywords:

• gender fluidity
• sumptuary law
• sartorial agency
• gender performativity
• heteronormativity
• self-fashioning

Acknowledgements

The author is grateful for the support of Dr Wayne Martino, supervisor and mentor, for his unfailing and always kind guidance. Although the original data preceded funding, the author is also grateful for the SSHRC CGS doctoral grant that supported the writing of this paper.

Notes

1. In Canada, public schools (from elementary through to secondary levels, including enrolment of students aged 4–17) are funded by the individual provinces under Ministries of Education which also provides and oversees curriculum.