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ABSTRACT
An explanation for the direct role of linoleic acid in barrier function is offered based on the fact that the formation of a crystalline state of the hydrocarbon chains in the stratum corneum lipids strongly reduces or entirely removes the barrier. Addition of linoleic acid to a gel liquid crystalline structure of oleic acid/sodium oleate, a model for stratum corneum lipids, prevents crystallization of the hydrocarbon chains when the water content is reduced. Thus the presence of unsaturation in the fatty acid/soap is not sufficient to prevent cyrstallization, rather inclusion of the essential fatty acid, linoleic acid, will retain the liquid crystalline structure necessary for normal barrier function over a wide range of relative humidities.