Competitive performance predictors in speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing

ABSTRACT

The study modelled the influence of anthropometric components, climbing-specific power, strength and endurance parameters, flexibility, coordination, and motor planning skills on competitive climbing performance in speed, bouldering, and lead climbing. Sixty-one competitive climbers (26 women [18.1 ± 1.9y], 35 men [21.4 ± 6.1y]) participated. PCA and MRA were used for statistical analyses. Significant predictors for speed climbing performance (R² = 44% and 35%) were lower (ß = .43 and .47) and upper body power and strength (ß = .40 and .37) for women and men, respectively. For women’s bouldering performance (R² = 39%), they were hip flexibility (ß = .42) and upper body power and strength (ß = .37), for the men’s (R² = 53%) lower (ß = .41) and upper body power (ß = .41) and body fat (ß = .37). For women’s lead climbing (R² = 58%) upper body power and strength (ß = .59) and finger endurance (ß = .48) predict performance, for the men’s (R² = 58%) lower (ß = .36) and upper body power (ß = .28), body fat (ß = .27) and motor planning skills (ß = .27). The multivariate models provide a framework for scientifically grounded climbing training by emphasizing the role of specific performance components.

KEYWORDS:

• performance analysis
• elite climbing
• bouldering
• lead climbing
• speed climbing

Acknowledgments

We would like to thank everyone who contributed to this study: The study assistants for data acquisition and processing, the German Alpine Club for providing the athletes, the DAV Kletterzentrum Augsburg for letting us use their premises and facilities, and especially the participants. Thank you.

Disclosure statement

No potential conflict of interest was reported by the authors.

Notes

¹ Hatch and Leonardon (2021). Olympic Combined is not considered since no competitions in the format used for the 2024 Olympic Games had taken place so far and therefore no rankings are available.

Additional information

Funding

This study was part of the research project “Development of a scientifically based performance diagnostics in sports climbing,” founded by the German Federal Institute of Sport Science (BISp ZMVI4-070707/18-19).